A visit to Chardham: ( Yamunotri, Gangotri, KedarNath and BadriNath) in the Garhwal region of Himalyas ,India (June 19-30, 2009)
By
Dr. A. K. Srivastava
(Flat no.: 2-D, PDIL/Srijan Aptts.,B-9/8,Sector-62,Noida-201307(U.P.),India.
For those, who believe no proof is necessary,
For those, who don’t believe no proof is possible. -----Stuart Chase
Garhwal region of Uttarakhand in Himalyas has always been attracting the people since centuries, because of its nascent scenic beauty and spiritual significance. It is generally called as Dev Bhumi, Place of Gods, being the centre for long and arduous Tap (penance) by our ancestors, Rishies / Munies, Devtas and others. It has always been in the focus of Hindu spiritual-map, being one of the most important pilgrimage-Dhams (centres). As per Hindu traditions, in order to wash-off the accumulated sins in ones life-time and salvage the purity of spirits, every person is expected to visit in his/her life-time all the four Dhams, namely Dwarka in Gujrat (Western India), Rameshwaram in Tamilnadu (Southern-India), Jagannath Puri in Orissa (Eastern India), and Badrinath in Garhwal region of Uttarakhand (Northern India). It is believed that to revive the lost prestige of Hinduism and to unite the country in one bond, Adi Guru Sri Shankaracharya built above said four pilgrimage centres in four corners of India. Among them Badrikashram (Badrinath) in the north, situated at an elevation of 3,133 Mts. is considered to be amongst the most pious.
In the Garhwal region of Uttarakhand , the CharDham , generally means the four most pious religious places in the hills ,viz. Yamunotri, Gangotri, KedarNath and BadriNath. Some say it chhota Char Dham.
I have always been attracted towards Garhwal’s Char Dhams and wishing to visit these sacred places, both because of its famous natural beauty and spiritual importance. I have had heard in the family that my maternal grand-parents: late Sri Shital Prasad Srivastava and late Mrs. Mangala Srivastava had made several visits to these places about 55 years back, when even proper motor-able roads were not there and visitors were supposed to walk/trek all the distances carrying along with them their provisions and other belongings. As available infra-structural facilities were very meager, it took them months to complete the journey. Therefore, it was a big occasion in the family on their returning home back. It was a normal practice to celebrate the occasion with another religious function like Shrimad Bhagwat Katha, followed by a big Bhandara (Free Kitchen for family, friends/relatives/ neighbors, Priests/Sadhus etc.).
It is believed thatout of three Rins (spritual debts)- two rins namely “DevRin” and “Pitra Rin” can be substantially reduced by visiting these Char Dhams and doing pious deeds. Some people also perform “Shraadh-karm (Pinda dan)” at Badrinath Dham for the salvation and peace of deceased ancestors.
Garhwal region of Uttarakhand is also famous for its abundance in natural beauty and people do visit this area every year, in thousands to enjoy the beauty and also do pilgrimage.
I, along with my wife: Mrs. Shanti Srivastava, after considering various available options in the market, chose one of the packages offered by Garhwal Mandal Vikas Nigam Ltd.( GMVNL), an undertaking of Govt. of Uttarakhand, for the Char Dham trip, starting from NewDelhi. It was scheduled to be completed in 12days/11nights. The scope of the GMVNL’s package contained all travel and lodging arrangements in their Tourist Rest Houses (TRH) only. Food and other incidentals were excluded from the package as to provide flexibility/economy to the package. We found their medium paced itinerary was more suitable to us. Keeping in view our general health conditions, the scarcity of oxygen in the air due to height, bad road conditions due to new-constructions/widening of old/existing roads and other safety conditions in the hills, the itinerary was nicely and skillfully drafted. Generally there was no need to travel after sun-set.
As per the printed GMVNL brochure, our Char Dham tour was to start from New Delhi and we were supposed to go first to Yamunotri, then Gangotri, then Kedar Nath ,and finally to BadriDham, before its culmination in New Delhi on the 12th day evening. During the said itinerary, we were scheduled to stay at GMVNL‘s TRHs at Bharat Bhumi (Rishikesh), Phool Chatti, Harsil, Uttarkashi, Syalsaur, Kaleshwar (alternatively we stayed at Chandrapuri ,due to changed schedule), Rudra Prayag, BadriNath, Kedar Nath, Rahi Hotel ( Haridwar). In actual, there has been some modifications in the scheduled itinerary, due to unforeseen & sudden strike by Mandir-staff at Kedar Nath on 25th June 2009, pressing for, among other issues, construction of motor-able, all season roads at up to Kedar Nath temple. Instead, we were advised to proceed for Badri nath Dham first and then finally come to Kedar Nath as the last leg of the tour.
Our group was a party of 4 individuals comprising of from 2 different families. The other family was from Hyderabad (Andhra Pradesh) : Mrs. Kalindi and Dr. Sudhaker Chintawar (M: 91-98499 05074, e-mail:sudhaker.chintwar@yahoo.co.in). They are Marathi and Telgu speaking couple, and highly fluent in Hindi/English also. Dr. Chintwar is an active MBBS general physician doctor, who has also worked in seventies/eighties in Iran for 9/10 years. His wife: Mrs. Kalindi Chintwar,an M.A. in Hindi, is basically a house-wife, but also a fire-brand ( famed TV character Rajini style) social worker. Both made a good company to us and were very caring, cooperative and amicable.
Day 1: June 19, 2009, Friday
Delhi-Rishikesh (Altitude 335 meters, Min/Max Temperature: 15/40 deg Celsius)
(By car 230 Kms)
We were advised to report in the morning at 6:30 AM at GMVNL, PRO’s Indra Prakash, CP, New Delhi-110001 office, along with bag and baggage. Mr. Chauhan (Contact no.011-23327713 / (M) 91-9899217262) was our coordinator.
After normal introduction, exchange of greetings etc., we were ready to start our first leg of the journey by 06:45 am by Toyota Innova Car and Mr. Sabal Singh was our driver. Our first break was at Big Bite restaurant for breakfast, after about 1½ hours of journey. It was a breezy, modestly hot mid June morning and we enjoyed our journey, discussing various topics under the sun. From Khatauli town, in order to save some travel-time due to traffic jams, we did an experiment. We abandoned the normal Delhi-Haridwar highway and took Canal Road for about 90 Kms, driving along with the Ganges river, passing through Mangalore and Badrabad towns. We met with the main road after Roorkee city and finally at about 2:30 pm, we were at GMVNL’s Bharat Bhumi TRH (near Natraj Chowk). I checked in Room No.102. It was a big hotel, with attached good restaurant and near to GMVNL’s transport and other offices. After lunch and some rest, we discussed about our transport arrangement for the subsequent journey, as the current car was up to Rishikesh only and it was supposed to be changed.
In the evening, we went to see other places in Rishikesh and participate in Parmartha Ashram’s famous Ganga-Arti function. Center’s Minister of State for Defense-Production: Mr. Pallam Raju was a guest of honor at the function. We stayed for about 1½ hours, enjoyed the place at the bank of river Ganges, sun setting evening filled with devotion, traditional music and bhajans (devotional songs sung by Brahmacharis-- celibate teenager students from the ashram’s schools, clad in saffron colored dresses, with long hair-tails). We also did Arti with our own hands. During the celebrations, my eyes got focused on a face, which I could subsequently recognized as of Mr. R. K. Sharma, one of my old colleague from PDIL, Sindri. I approached and talked to him. He told me that after his retirement from PDIL, he was now settled in Jaipur city (Rajasthan) and his wife expired two years back suffering from cancer. Contrary to his normal self, he looked weak and tired. I felt pity for him and soon we departed in the crowd. We returned to our hotel-room at about 10:30 pm, after our dinner at “Chotiwala” restaurant.
Day 2: June 20, 2009 Saturday
Rishikesh-PhulChatti (Altitude 2450 meters, Min/Max Temperature: 05/22 deg Celsius)
(By car 232 Kms - via Chamba, ChinyaliSaur, Badkot)
Next morning around 7:00 am, it was informed to us that our new car (Tata Sumo Vita, Regn. NoUA-7C-8446) and driver (Mr. Jagdamba Unniyal) shall be at our duty for next 11 days. We started early from Rishikesh, as it was practically our first day in the hills and we had to have a long journey before our scheduled stay at Phulchatti.
Barring a few halts for breakfast/tea, lunch at GMVNL’s Barkot etc, we have been driving the whole day in the hills. It was pretty hot in the hills during the day because of environmental degradation, due to high degree of de-forestation, increased human activity/settlement in forests and also wildfire in the forests. Some of the valleys were so much filled with smoke due to wild-fire and it was bad enough compared to morning winter-smog in the metro-cities. No rains in the hills since 10 months is another major reason for this hot temperature.
We reached GMVNL’s Phulchatti TRH in the evening and stayed at Room No.103. It was a good located complex, near the main highway, with newly built/ nicely furnished cottages situated at the foots of the hills, with snow capped mountains and greenery all around. Evening was mild chilly. After a hot water bath, and some rest, we went to see some TV News, in the manager’s cabin, but were disappointed as it had no cable-connection but only some local channels. There is no mobile phone connectivity in the hills and we were told that one can contact the rest of the world from Jankichatti , where PCO s with BSNL connections are available. After our dinner at the TRH, we retired early as for next day we had planned to trek 6+6 KMs for Yamunotri from JankiChatti.
Day-3 SunDay - 21-6-2009: PhulChatti-JankiChatti-trek to & from Yamunotri ( Altitude 3165 MTs, & Min/Max Temp: 05/15 deg Celsius) ( By car 3 ½ KM s up to Jankichatti then trekking 6 KMs to Jamunotri and back )
We were awake at about 4:30 AM in the morning because of early sun light in the hills and ringing wells of stream of horses going for Yamunotri tracking. After a quick morning walk in the foothills, enjoying the scenic beauty of Garhwal ranges, we got ready early and started for Janki Chatti, by car. Since my wife had some problems in her knee-joints, we decided she would instead take a Doli-palki (a make shift chair carried on shoulders by four porters). I preferred to trek.
For religious rituals(puja-archana) at the Yamuntori Dham, we took a priest with us from Phulchatti itself. His name was Pt.Dharmendra Unniyal, who was a local and came previous evening at our Phulchatti TRH. He trekked along me up to Yamunotri temple.
I started from Janki chatti at about 8:30 AM and reached Yamunotri Temple in about 3 ½ hours say by 12:10 PM. It was an arduous straight climb for about 5 ½ KM s, out of total 6 KM long track, but was worth the pains, as fully compensated for the scenic beauty of the places in the way. The track was all along by the side of river Yamuna, flowing with tearing sound and great speed .The river has at many places sliced the hills,as if some body has used a surgeon’s knife for dissection of the mountains, those are other wise covered with greenery of wild forests. Words cannot fully justify the scenic beauty, and one has to only see it to admire. The cool pleasant breeze with bright sunny weather was additional bonus. Lack of oxygen in the air due to heights was some problem initially, but I overtook it by taking periodical rest intermittently.
On reaching the temple, we had a warm water bath at the surya-kund (a hot water spring) which was sufficient to vanish all tiredness of the trekking and did puja / archana, and darshan at the temple. We offered Anna Dan (Cereal/Grain offerings) to our priest. After lunch at one of the restaurants near the temple, we started for back- ward journey at about 2:30 PM and reached Jankichatti in 1 ½ hrs, as descend was easy.
The sacred shrine of Yamunotri, source of the river Yamuna, is the westernmost shrine in the Garhwal Himalayas, perched atop a flank of Bandar Poonch Parvat. The chief attraction at Yamunotri is the temple devoted to goddess Yamuna and the holy thermal springs at Jankichatti (7 km. Away).
The actual source a frozen lake of ice & glacier (Champasar glacier) located on the Kalind mountain at the height of 4421 m above sea level, about 1 km further up, is not frequented generally as it is not accessible and hence the shrine has been located on the foot of the hill. The approach is extremely difficult and pilgrims therefore offer puja at the temple itself.
The temple of Yamuna is on the left bank of Yamuna constructed by Maharaja Pratap Shah of Tehri Garhwal. The deity is made of black marble. The Yamuna like Ganga has been revered to the status of divine mother for the Hindus and has been held responsible for nurturing and developing the Indian civilization.
Close to the temple are hot water springs gushing out from the mountain cavities. Suryakund is the most important Kund. Near the Suryakund there is a shila called Divya Shila, which is worshipped before puja is offered to the deity. Devotees prepare rice and potatoes to offer at the shrine by dipping them in these hot water springs, tied in muslin cloth. Rice so cooked is taken back home as prasadam. The pujaris of Yamunotri come from the village of Kharsali near Jankichatti. They are the administrators of the sacred place and perform religious rites well versed in Shastras.
The temple opens on Akshay Tritiya (May) and closes on Yama Dwitiya (the second day after Diwali, mostly in November). Yamunotri Temple is open for devotees from 6AM to 8 PM. Aarti timings of Yamunotri temple is from 6:30 AM and 7:30 PM. The special puja is organized in Yamunotri on the eves of Janmashtami and Diwali.
Reached the Phulchatti TRH in late evening and stayed the night there. We asked at TRH for some local delicacy in the dinner and were served along with other items, millet-roti and sag of a special spinach-variety typical to this part of Garhwal region. It was pretty delicious and nutritious.
Day-4 MonDay - 22-6-2009: PhulChatti-Harshil ( Altitude 2620 MTs, & Min/Max Temp: 04/22 deg Celsius) ( By car 212 KM s - via Sayanachatti , UttarKashi)
We started early from Phulchatti and took breakfast in the way at TRH, Sayanachatti.Surprisingly, the quality of food and the service here was excellent, compared to TRH Phulchatti. Since, we were out of contact with our people for last 3 days, we rang-up some of them from a PCO here. We could get lines only for Gorakhpur and asked our people to intimate about our well being to other kith and kins at U.S.A.
We drove all the day through the hills. It was hot and suffocating at a few places due to smoke in the valleys due to wild fire. The step-farms were dry and parched because of scanty rains in the hills. Majority of the hills were bald and had no vegetation. It depresses one and all.
In the evening we reached Harsil and checked-in at room no.204 at TRH, Harsil. Though entrance to the TRH is not very impressive, the location is ideal for a tourist spot at the banks of river Bhagirathi. The river is flowing majestically by the side of the boundary walls of the TRH. Imagine you are surrounded all around with majestic snow clad mountains, tall green wild forests, hilly landscape, a mighty river, with curvy-wide spade, flowing in great speed in a cool breezy June evening and you are able to enjoy all this under a dim moonlit night from your hotel room window. It had an exclusive soothing effect on your mind and self. We used the small service door in the back - side of the boundary wall and reached up to the river bed. We did puja, Arti, photography and some stone collection of different shape/color/ sizes.
Harsil is a small, hilly town at the banks of river Bhagirathi, famous for its nascent beauty and also as a major center of ITBP( Indo-Tibet Border Police). The Jawans in their typical olive green colored dresses, barracks, mess for both officers and jawans, ammunition-depots,schools, hospitals etc and dozen of army jeeps and trucks moving all around opposite the TRH and the other side of the Bhagirathi river are a common scene. It is said that the shooting of the famous Raj Kapoor directed Bollywood film “Ram Teri Ganga Maeli: was filmed at Harsil about 1 ½ KM downwards from the city.
Most of the GMVNL's TRHs are at wonderful locations,which are the most strong points to their favour.Contrary to this, our experience with most of GMVNL's restaurants/food- services, where we stayed in, is honestly not good, barring at a very few places.Taking advantage of the fact that these TRHs are located at isolated places, where other market places are far-away, the focus here is more on extracting/fleecing the customers, rather than to serve them. Seldom the GMVNL' s printed Menu cum Price-List card is available in the rooms/some times at even restaurants. The incharge tries to serve only those things, which are of his option, taking advantage of the socalled facts that raw materials are not available. Can you believe, we were forced to take breakfast of Aloo Paratha for most of our journey. At Harsil, old stale (left over from lunch) roti was served in the dinner( Plese see R/No.125390 dtd.22/6/2009), as a result we had to abandon the dinner and spent the night hungry, while paying a bill of Rs.452/-.
Day-5 TuesDay - 23-6-2009: Harshil-Gangotri(Altitude 3048 MTs)-Uttar Kashi ( Altitude 1150 MTs, & Min/Max Temp: 15/35 deg Celsius) ( By car 160 KM s - via Gangnanii , Bhatwari)
We started early from harsil and reached Gangotri in time. Since we planned to have Puja, archana and darshan at the Ganagotri temple, we were at fast and wanted to break it only after performing our religious rituals.
The scenic beauty on the way to Gangotri Dham is unique and at many of the places one is left spell bound, without words. In the background of snow capped mountains, thick green wild forests on a hilly landscape, with fruits/ flowers of different colors, thousand of feet deep gorges and river Bhagirathi flowing between them in great speed are typical to beauty of Garhwal ranges. I have seen, both Switzerland in Europe and Garhwal in India and can safely say Garhwal is far more beautiful out of the two. It lacks only good infrastructure, wide publicity and aggressive marketing.
On reaching Gangotri, we contacted Pt. Luxmi Prasad Semwal (M) 91-94115 90415,and retained him as our priest and guide. He is a middle aged, learned, matured and sincere priest ( not only he did all puja sincerely and painstakingly, but made arrangements for all samagri (ingredients required for the puja ) himself, purchased and given us prasadam on his own) . The Ganga Jal, collected at the Saptkund was ceremonised partially used in the puja and the balance is taken along with us as part of Prasadam and now kept in our puja- room. He guided us to the stone shila, where king Bhagirathi did penance for 5,500 years (it is assumed that in satya yug the normal longevity of humen was about 50,000 years) to bring river ganga on the earth for the benefit of his ancestors and others living beings on the earth. In those times, it is said, the Ganga appeared from at that particular place, hence the place was termed Gangotri. Currently, the feeding glacier is 17 KM away at Gaumukh. The color of the water at Sapt Kund is muddy, as river Bhagirathi carries a large amount of mud sand and other silt along with its currents. Due to global warming the volume of water in the river- bed is high and during the warm summer season is significantly large than in other seasons.
We did some shopping for souvenirs and gifts after performing our Puja, archana and darshan at the Ganagotri temple.
The revered shrine of Gangotri, situated at an altitude of 3,200 MTs. above sea- level amidst sylvan surroundings, constitutes one of the most important pilgrimages for the devout Hindu.The temple was constructed in the early 18th century by a Gorkha Commander Amar Sigh Thapa. The existing temple is said to be the one reconstructed by the Jaipur dynasty. Every year thousands of pilgrims come to visit the sacred shrine between May & October. The Pujaris & brahmins are from the village of Mukhwa. The water from Gangotri is considered most pious and is carried for offering to Lord Shiva at Kedar Nath and other holy places. It is believed that this water has amrit (nectar) in it and will soothe the throat of Shiva who did gulp the poison.
The Shrine of Gangotri opens during the last week of April or the first week of May, on the auspicious day of Akshaya Tritiya. The temples opening is preceded by a special Puja of Ganga both inside the temple as well as on the river bank. The temple closes on the day of Diwali followed by a formal closing ceremony amidst a row of oil lamps. It is believed that the Goddess retreats to Mukhwa, her winter abode (12 km downstream).
In summer,
Gangotri Temple is open for devotees from 6:15 am to 2 pm and 3 pm to 9:30 pm
As winter
approaches the Gangotri Temple open from 6:45
am to 2 pm and 3
pm to 7 pm
Mangalaarti is done by priests at 6 am behind the closed doors and it is not open for public. Sandhya Aarti is performed at Gangotri at 7:45 pm during summer and at 7 pm as winter approaches. Special pooja is done on Janamshtami, Vijaydashmi and Diwali.
After the shopping was over, we did break our fast by taking our breakfast at one of the restaurants near the temple complex, we started for UttarKashi by car. In the way the temperature meter of our car started showing maximum figure, but the pick-up was normal. As we were anxious, we checked the radiator coolant- levels, engine oil levels, tyre –temperature etc and finally we came to the conclusion that either the electric switch or its wiring for the temperature-indicator may be faulty. How ever, till we got it checked at one of the road-side garages on the way, we were very anxious .
We stayed for a break, on the way, at Pilot-Baba’s ashram. The ashram is situated at a very central place on the Gangotri- UttarKashi highway and has a big temple-complex devoted to various God/Goddesses. We did darshan and some photography at the ashram. Pilot Baba was away in Japan, where he mostly lives in his Japanese devotees’ ashram and does supervise many projects.
By evening we reached Uttar Kashi and stayed at GMVNL' s TRH at room no.101.The TRH was situated in the down town, nearby most of shopping complexes, city-temples, bus-stands, schools, eateries etc. It was quite warm and humid in Uttar Kashi in the evening. After some rest and light refreshment in our rooms, we started to visit the famous Vishwanath ( Lord Shiva) temple, Shakti temple, Parashuram temple.
The Vishwanath Mandir is Uttarkashi’s most venerated temple .It draws a huge number of devotees from across India through out the year. The temple is the replica of the Vishwanath temple in Kashi or Varanasi in northern India. It is said that, in Kalyug, Lord Shiv will move to Uttarkashi from Kashi. The the idol here is swayambhu, that is, it emerged from the earth on its own. The fact that the huge black stone shivling leans to the left is considered proof that it was not established by man and that it has existed since time immemorial. The base of the shivling is made of brass, a more recent addition as are the tiles on the walls of the sanctum sanctorum. Above this is kalash (vessel) used to pour water or milk as offering on the Shivling. The shivling is enclosed within a very low wall in the shape of a square with Ganesh’ s idol at one end. To the right, along the wall, is placed an idol of Lord Shiv’s consort Parvati. In the chamber just outside the sanctum sanctorum is a huge statue of the Nandi bull, Lord Shiv’s vahan (vehicle). On the ceiling, just above the shivling is drawn a Shri Yantra. The present temple structure was built out of stone by King Pradyuman Shah over 350 years ago.
The Shakti temple is another important place of worship in the city. It is opposite to VishwaNath temple. The center of attention at the Shakti Temple is the shakti stambh or the huge trident that protrudes out of the roof of the temple. It must be about 20 feet above the ground. It is said that when the epic battle ensued between the devtas (gods) and the asuras (demons), the shakti stambh was sent down from heaven to kill the asuras. Since then, it has been balanced on the hood of the shesh naag (the mythological snake god which also supports the earth on its hood) in pataal (the nether world). This is the reason that when one touches the stambh, it vibrates which would not be possible unless it were fixed to the ground. It is also said that no one has been able to identify the metals from which the stambh is made though its globular base was created out of asht dhatu (eight metals) a thousand years ago. The column leading up to the trident is covered in red pieces of cloth decorated with gold work (traditional offering to Goddess Shakti) which symbolise devotees’ mannats (wishes). It was very crowded in the evening. However, we tried to touch/shake and feel the vibration.
The Parasuram temple is on the way back to our hotel. The idol of
lord Parasuram in this temple is said to date back to the 8th century AD. It
looked more like a jain tirthankar idol. The pujari told us that before the
present temple is constructed and idol was formally commissioned, it was being
worshipped as a shakti devi idol. Lord Parsuram is called astra ka devta
(god of weapons) , also known as the warrior sage for the parsu (battle
axe that he carries). As per religious myth,he is one of the seven munis
who are said to be chinranjeevi (immortal).
It is said that Parsuram beheaded his mother, Renuka, on the orders of his
father Sage Jamdagni. The latter, pleased with his son’s obedience, granted him
a boon. Parsuram ,nicely used the boon and asked for restoration of his
mother’s life, which was done. Nevertheless, he was guilty of matri hatya
(one’s mother’s murder) and was told by his father to go to Uttarkashi to
repent. Uttarkashi is then his tapsthali (place of meditation).
We did some shopping, withdrawn money from one of the bank’s ATM s, took dinner at one of the good restaurants and retired early. The driver, as part of his planning, took diesel in his car, as in the hills one cannot expect to get fuel at every gas station.
Day-6 WednesDay - 24-6-2009: Uttar Kashi-Syalsaur ( Altitude 880 MTs, & Min/Max Temp: 15/35 deg Celsius) ( By car 245 KM s - via Lambgaon, Ghansali, RudraPrayag, August Muni)
We started early at 7=15 AM as we had to cover the maximum distance today. Hardly we went out of the Uttar Kashi city boundary that our car broke down at about 8:15 AM , without an advance signal. We were stranded on the way. Luckily, it was near a small village. We reported the matter to our coordinator: Mr. Chauhan at GMVNL’s PRO, New Delhi office and asked for his help. Mr. Jagdamba , our driver, parked the car at the side of the road, locked it and went Uttar Kashi for help at the GMVNL’ s office. It took about three hours to help come in. Meanwhile, we availed the opportunity, did our breakfast, talked with villagers about their problems, functioning of local girls /boys senior secondary schools / dispensary etc. We were pleasantly surprised to get answers from villagers that teachers at the schools were regular and dispensary was also operating daily from 8AM to 2 PM in the after noon. The doctor regularly comes from Uttar Kashi and stays for about 4 hours, but pharmacist stays longer. People were otherwise sad due to environmental degradation and no rains since last 10 months. We said goodbye to our driver: Mr. Jagdamba and praised & tipped him for his good services.
The alternative vehicle was an Ambassador Car: Regn No. UA 07A/3272 and driver was Mr. Amit .He was a young man in his twenties and offered us to make do for the time lost due to breakdown of our vehicle .He could do it also. By 6:30 PM, we were at Sayal saur TRH. On the way we could see the Tehri Dam / Hydro -power station put up at the Alaknanada river.
The GMVNL’ s Sayalsaur TRH is situated at a coveted place, on the banks of river Alaknanda. The cottages are unique, in the sense that only locally available raw materials were used in their construction. The furnishings in side the rooms, interior as well as out side decorations were done with mostly bamboo wood. Lamp-sheds, beds, chairs/tables etc. all were made of bamboo/bamboo products. Instead of brick/mortar walls, it was made of bamboo-mat ( chatai).In place of steel, only bamboo girders were used. The bath –rooms were nicely furnished with modern fittings and glazed tiles, both on the walls and the floor. It was a different and memorable experience. We checked-in cottage no-1. In the late evening, before the darkness set-in, we went to the Alaknanada river bank and enjoyed its unique setting at sun set. We sat on the boulders and felt peace and coolness for some time, before the power- shedding at the TRH started. Took dinner at TRH restaurants—food was very ordinary. We got the message that a new car is being driven from Rishikesh and from tomorrow onwards it would be on our service. Also, since there was a strike by temple-staff at KedarNath on 25-6-09, we were advised to go instead to BadriNath next day, for which alternate lodging arrangements were made at BadriNath.
Day-7 ThursDay - 25-6-2009: Syalsaur-Badri Nath ( Altitude 3133 MTs, & Min/Max Temp: 5/18 deg Celsius) ( By car 190 KM s - via Rudra Prayag, Gauchar,Karna Pryag, Nand Pryag, Vishnu Prayag, Joshi Math)
Our new car was a 2005 model Tata Sumo Vita, with Regn. No. UA 07C/8450 and driver was Mr. Ram Dayal. He is an experienced and matured driver, with limited words. He speaks less but communicates fully. He is more interested with his work. It was an eventless normal day, as we drove through out the day .The traffic was allowed one way, 36 KM s each, from and to Joshi Math .One has to wait till traffic is allowed at intervals /specified timings( 2-3 times in a day).
The journey from Joshi math to Badri Nath is typically more adventurous and dangerous, because of less wide roads, deep gorges, high mountains, bad road conditions due to widening of existing or construction of new roads. At some places, there is practically no road and the car was running on stone boulders only. On the way, we saw the JP group’s Hydro-project with big dams, power generation plants etc. It is a complete city in itself. Beyond it, almost there is no villages or any other population on the way. In contrast to the above, the scenic beauty is stunning and unique, with majestic snow capped mountains, green wild forests, deep gorges with winding hilly roads and traffic crawling on them. We wondered God forbid it, if there was any accident or break down of vehicles, how it would be possible to address the situation?. We have often read about accidents in the local news -papers when some vehicles were reported to have fallen in these gorges, thousands of feet deep in it. Practically, there is no chance of survival and retrieval of vehicles is also impossible.
In the evening, we reached the Badri Nath Dham about 5:30 PM, hungry and tired ( we could not get time/chance to have our lunch and spent the day on some snacks in road side stalls).But, we forgot every thing when we saw the magnificent Nar and Narayan mountains and the Badri Nath temple. It was chilly evening. We checked in GMVNL’s Devlok TRH at room no.310 at first floor. The location of the TRH was central, near the bus stand, the temple and other important places like shopping area, eateries etc.
Keeping in view the rush hours, long queues for the darshan, we purchased tickets from the temple counter at gate no. 3,for darshan at Sayan Arti Puja of the idol. Sayan Arti is performed, when all the puja / abhisekh scheduled for the day is over and it is preparatory to the rest time of the deity. It is the last puja of the day. Selected audience is allowed in this puja, when all the decorations, precious jewellery etc are removed one after another in full view of the present audience and kept in safe custody. After arti, Puja one can get a chance to go nearer to the sanctum sanctorum ,offer the offerings/prasadam to the deity through the priests present there in for the purpose. All the senior priests and VIP s were present at this occasion. The whole puja took about 2 hour time. When we were out of the temple, it was about 10:30 PM and then we realized that we were hungry as we missed the lunch in the day. We did take our dinner and were back to our hotel at about 11:30 PM.
Day-8 Fri Day - 26-6-2009: Badri Nath –Rudra Prayag ( Altitude 840 MTs, & Min/Max Temp: 15/35 deg Celsius) ( By car 160 KM s - via Joshi Math, Vishnu Prayag, Nand Pryag, Karna Pryag, Gauchar) .
Next day morning, we planned to go for the darshan early and got up at 3:30 AM in the morning. After getting ready, we were in the queue for darshan at about 4:15 AM. At that hour of time there were limited number of devotees in the queue. As the temple opens at 04:30 AM, we got a good darshan at that hour quickly. We did some photo-shoots at the temple complex and were ready for our next course of action i.e. performing Shradh Karm by offering homage in form of pind-dan ( pinds are round shaped balls, made from basically barley-flour, offered through specific rituals) for the salvation and peace of deceased ancestors. Near the temple complex, a flat stone-platform on the left bank of the River Alaknanda is called Brahma Kapal. It is the place where Hindus perform propitiating-rites for their deceased ancestors. It is understood that lord Ram did pind-dan at this place to his father: king Dashrath and other ancestors. I also performed the pind-dan, tarpan, and havan for in the memory of our ancestors, both from mother and father sides. It is very interesting to know and then do that only in the Hindu culture one pays tributes to one’s enemies by offering pind-dan at this place as out of 17 numbers pinds made and offered during the puja, one was for and in the name of enemy. The whole process took about 2 ½ hours time. As it was getting late, I returned to our hotel. Soon we left it for back ward journey.
Badrinath temple
The temple of lord Badrinath is situated in the lap of Nar-Narayan mountains, with the towering Neelkanth peak (6,597mts.) in the background. Also known as the Vishal Badri, the largest among the five Badris, it is revered by all as the apt tribute to Lord Vishnu.
It is believed that to revive the lost prestige of Hinduism and to unite the country in one bond, Adi Guru Sri Shankaracharya built four pilgrimage centres in four corners of India. Among them were Badrikashram (Badrinath) in the north, Rameshwaram in the south, Dwarkapuri in the west and Jagannath Puri in the east. Badrinath situated at an elevation of 3,133 MTs. is considered to be amongst the most pious.
The revered spot was once carpeted with wild berries which gave it the name 'Badri Van' meaning 'forest of berries.' Built by Adi Shankaracharaya, the philosopher-saint of the 8th century, the temple has been renovated several times due to damage by avalanches and restored in the 19th century by the royal houses of Scindia & Holkar. The main entrance gate is colourful & imposing popularly known as Singhdwar.
A flight of steps takes pilgrims to the main gate & then into the temple. The temple is divided into three parts - the 'Garbha Griha' or the sanctum sanctorum, the 'Darshan Mandap' where the rituals are conducted and the 'Sabha Mandap' where devotees assemble. The Garbha Griha portion has its canopy covered with a sheet of gold offered by Queen Ahilyabai Holkar. The complex has 15 idols especially attractive is the one-metre high image of lord Badrinath, finely sculpted in black stone. It represents Lord Vishnu seated in a meditative pose called padmasan.
Darshan Mandap: Lord Badrinath is sitting meditating in the padmasana (lotus yogic posture). As you look at the Deities, standing to the right side of Badrinarayana is Uddhava. To the far right side are Nara and Narayana. Narada Muni is kneeling in front on the right side and is difficult to see. On the left side are Kubera, the god of wealth, and a silver Ganesh. Garuda is kneeling in front, to the left of Badrinarayana.
Special pujas are also performed on behalf of individuals. Every puja must be preceded by a holy dip in the Tapta Kund. Some of the special morning pujas are Abhishek, Mahaabhishek, Geeta Path. Some special evening pujas are Aarti & Geet Govind. Such pujas are to be booked in advance. The temple opens at 0430 hrs & closes at 1300 hrs. Once again it opens at 1600 hrs & closes at 2100 hrs after the divine song Geet Govind. Rawal is the administrator-Pujari of the temple well versed in puja ceremonials & Sanskrit language and is expected to be celibate..
Badri refers to a berry that was said to grow abundantly in the area, and nath refers to Vishnu. Badri is the Sanskrit name for the Indian Jujube trees, which has an edible berry. Some scriptural references also refer to Jujube trees being abundant in Badrinath. Legend has it that Goddess Lakshmi took the form of the berries to protect Lord Vishnu from the harsh climate during his long penance.
The opening date of Badrinath Temple is fixed on Basant Panchami by Raj Purohit and closure date is fixed on Vijaydashmi by Mandir Committee. The temple opens every year in the month of April-May & closes for winters in the third week of November. Joshimath is the winter deity of Badrinath.
Special booking of pujas can be done at Badrinath Mandir Committee by paying some fees. The pooja is organized before the temple is open for general public.
Some festivals celebrated in Badrinath are: Mata Murti ka mela, Krishna Janamashtami and Badri-Kedar utsav.
Badrinath's four subsidiary Badris populary known as Panch Badri include Bhavishya Badri, Yogdhyan Badri, Bridha Badri and Adi Badri. It is popularly believed that with spread of Buddhism, the Buddhists enshrined the statue of Lord Buddha there and during the Hindu renaissance , the statue of Buddha was later restored by Adi Guru as the idol of Vishnu. This possibly explains the deity sitting in Padmasan posture, typical of Buddha icons. However, also according to Hindu mythology, Buddha was considered to be the ninth incarnation of Lord Vishnu.
Before our starting the back journey to Rudra Pryag, we went to see the last village on Indo-Tibet border—called Mana Village. It is about 2 ½ KM away from Badrinath. Though a small and segregated village, it is popular among tourists because of natural beauty of surroundings and exquisite carpets, blankets, and colorful jerseys knitted by local women. We went to see the famous Bheem Pul ( a make shift stone bridge said to be constructed by famous Pandava Bhim by placing a single piece stone on the river Saraswati), the origin of the mythical river Saraswati, the Ved Vyas cave. The river saraswati is very furious at its origin place and flow with great speed through the mountains. It is said that muni Ved Vyas narrated the epic stories of Mahabharat, Srimad Bhagwat puran and other literary works to Lord Ganpathi here from near his cave and Lord Ganpathi wrote them on bhoj patra leaves sitting at other near by cave.
In the evening, we reached Rudra Prayag , place of confluences of rivers Alaknanada and Mandakini. We stayed at GMVNL’ s TRH room no.105, on the first floor. The location of the room was fantastic , as the place of confluences of rivers Alaknanada and Mandakini was just below the balcony of our room, across the river bed. The difference in water colors of both the rivers, before their confluence/mixing was vividly clear even in the dusk of evening and different ( water of river Mandakini being greyish- white whereas of river Alaknanda was yellowish white).On their confluence, a medium size temple is situated ,where evening Arti Puja is performed daily at around 7.00 PM and one can enjoy the same from the TRH room’s balcony. We did shoot some photos from the room and the river bank. We took our dinner at the hotel restaurant.
Day-9 SaturDay - 27-6-2009: Rudra Prayag-GauriKund (and then trekking to & from upto KedarNath) ( Altitude 3584 MTs, & Min/Max Temp: 04/18 deg Celsius) ( By car 89 KM - via Gupta Kashi , Son Prayag , plus trekking 14 Km upto Kedar Nath) .
We started from Rudra Prayag at about 7:15 AM in the morning and reached Gauri Kund in about 2 ½ hours. The weather was very conducive for trekking and moderately cold. It was a bright sunny and breezy day. Soon after all of our enthusiasm got deception, when we found there were no horses or doli /palki available for going to Kedar Nath due to lack of coolies/porter. It is said that all of them got booked in the morning itself because of heavy rush. They were expected back in the after noon, on their return from Kedar Nath. My wife was in no position to trek, because of her general health and knee problem. Hence, we waited and started late in the after noon at around 3:15 PM. My wife preferred a doli/palki , whereas I took a horse for the 14 KM trek. It was really a very arduous journey. Hardly we went for a KM, or so, after we started our journey, it started raining cats and dogs. It was my first experience trekking in the hills mounted on a horse. Since, we brought rain- coats along with, we were saved of the rains as well as the imminent cold. Soon we reached a place called Rambada-7 KM away from starting point and took a break for tea and some rest. Most of the 14 KM journey is steep climb, full of dangerous curves, slippery, stone tiled pathways, full of horses’ dung, foul smelling due to rains. Some times, it is so bad, one feels to run away from the stink. Many times accidents occurred as horses slipped due to slippery path. Lack of oxyzen at heights is another issue at the hills and one may soon develop mountain- sickness viz. lack of breath, head ach, nausea, body ach etc. As we were advised by people, who had been earlier to the hills, we took some dry fruits, nuts, camphor etc, which were found partially helpful. The scenic beauty through out the way was awesome. The whole range of majestic KedarNath mountains was fully covered with snow. As the sun- light was getting fainter due to sun being about to set-in the west, suddenly we found ourselves covered with clouds and fogs. Nothing was visible, even ones own hand- palms .I was scared for a moment. We faced this time of the situation earlier in New Delhi during cold wave conditions in the winters and especially near the Yamuna river-bank-area. However, any how at around 6:15 PM, I reached the Kedar Nath and checked-in the GMVNL’ s TRH room no105. The room was pretty good, barring a few issues as the geyzer was not functioning, probably due to low electric voltage problems. It was too cold out side and also raining. My shoes and socks were already wet and needed to be changed. My wife was late and tired, as palki normally takes about 5-6 hours time to reach Kedar Nath. When she reached hale and hearty at our hotel at about 8:30 PM, I got relieved. I immediately took her to the room, ordered her a hot- water for getting fresh up and also a hot cup of tea. Unfortunately, one of our group members: Mrs. Kalindi Chintwar got sick in the way because of chilling cold, thin oxygen, and exertion of the journey. She was to be provided immediately with additional blankets, extra-heating in the room, emergency medication, warm water bottles and in about after 2 hours she was near normal. In between I went to the temple nearby, seen evening Sringar Arti of the deity and made arrangements for the next day morning Puja / darshan. I made some urgent purchases like a set of hawai (flip-flop) chappals two pairs of socks etc. for the evening.
Took dinner in the hotel and retired early being tired.
Day-10 SunDay - 28-6-2009( 14 KM trekking from Kedar Nath and then )GauriKund -Chandra Puri ( Altitude 850 MTs, & Min/Max Temp: 15/35 deg Celsius) ( By car 80 KM) .
We woke up and got ready early in the morning for going to the temple at about 5:30 AM , besides bitter cold out-side the room. Luckly it was not raining and the hotel staff cooperated by offering to provide one bucket full hot water at any hour in the morning. Soon after our reaching temple, we realized a long queue for the entry in the temple for darshan. While waiting in the queue, we managed to get some time and went to see the samadhi of Adi Guru Shankaracharya, the famous 8th century saint-reformer who established the seat Kedar Nath. We choose Mr. Sheo Prasad Tiwari (M) 91-94107 71424) as our priest and local guide. He is a simple, sincere person, with good local contacts and seems to be enjoying a wider public acceptability. He made way and guided us to the main and other deities inside the temple, in midst of huge rush, organized our Puja- samagri(besides other things, ganga- jal, milk and curd, honey, pure/deshi ghee, Bel-Patra (5 sets -made of silver,in absence of actual bel-patra) etc and also performed puja sincerely at the garbh-graha inside the temple. We brought our ganga jal from Gangotri and offered the same to lord Mahadeo at Kedar Nath. We also did some photography and offered charities at temple-office as well as to sadhus near out side the temple. It was about 10:30 AM, and we soon realized that we are hungry, as have taken nothing since morning. On the way to our hotel, we took breakfast, did some shopping. We left the hotel a-s-a possible, as our driver was scheduled to bring the car at GauriKund at about 03:00PM (as there is no permanent parking available at Gauri Kund and cars are to be parked about 5 KM downwards at Son Prayag. Also getting mobile connectivity on the hills is also uncertain). The downward journey on horse’s back was equally tiring, hurting and risky. We found that some of the devotees got hurt in the way due to horse-slippage. I could manage to reach Rambara, mid way to the trek, in about 2 hours time and then decided to trek the remaining 7 KM of my own. The weather was very pleasant .The scenic beauty on the way was equally rewarding. The horse was following me all along with its owner. The descend was pretty fast and I covered about 6 KM s in 1 ½ hours. Soon the horse -man requested me to take the horse-ride for the remaining 1 KM and I obliged. My wife came back at the base at about 2:45 PM. Soon we started for Chandra Puri , our next destination/halt for the night. At Chanra Puri, we stayed at GMVNL ‘s TRH room no.202.The GMVNL ‘s TRH is just at the bank of river Mandakini. The scenic beauty was marvelous and the sound of gushing water can be heard at from the window of the room. It rained heavily in the evening and it was the season’s first rain-shower in the hills in this region. We heard the news on TV about the wide spread rains in the area.
The secret place of Kedarnath is the seat of Lord Shiva. It is one of the twelve "Jyotirlingas" of Lord Shiva. Lying at an altitude of 3584 m at the head of river Mandakini, the shrine of Kedarnath is amongst the holiest pilgrimage for the Hindus. It is no wonder that Adi Guru Shankaracharya - a great scholar & saint, chose to enshrine Lord Shiva in this land, where the unholy becomes holy and the holy becomes holier. Kedar meaning powerful is another name of Lord Shiva the protector and the destroyer.
Situated in the backdrop of the majestic Sri Kedarnath range, Kedarnath is a 14 km trek from Gaurikund.
At Kedarnath there are several Kunds (pools, tanks) that are known for their religious significance - shivkund, Retkund, hanskund, Udakkund, Rudhirkund are the most important. A little away from Kedarnath is a temple dedicated to Bhaironathji who is ceremoniously worshipped at the opening & closing of Kedarnath. The belief is that Bhairavnath ji protects this land from evil during the time when temple of Kedarnath is closed. There are more than 200 shrines dedicated to Lord Shiva in Chamoli district it self, the most important one is Sri Kedarnath.
During the winters, the shrine is submerged in snow & hence is closed. Fortunate are those who have good weather, but twice blessed are those who are at Kedar Nath on a moonlit night- the snow peak gleams like hundred silver pinnacles atop the glittering mountains.
The holiest of Shiva's shrines is linked to Gold among base metals so that every pilgrims finds peace here, and it is said that devotees who die here become one with Shiva himself. Beyond the temple is the highway to heaven, called Mahapanth.
The opening of date of Kedar Nath Temple is fixed and depends on the Shiva Ratri and decided by priests in Ukhimath. Normally Kedar Nath temple opens on Mid May. The closing date of Kedarnath is fixed on Yama Dwitiya (second day after Diwali, November).
Kedar Nath Temple is open for devotees from 6 AM to 2 PM and 5 PM to 8 PM.
Shingar Darshan is from 5 pm onwards and Aarti is performed at 6:45 PM.
Day-11 MonDay - 29-6-2009 Chandra Puri-Haridwar ( Altitude 292 MTs, & Min/Max Temp: 15/40 deg Celsius) ( By car 160 KM - via Rudra Pryag, Pauri, Deo Prayag, Rishikesh) .
We got up late in the morning and were more relaxed as our journey in the hills was about to be finished. We started at about 8:30 AM from Chanra Puri and reached Haridwar at near 2.15 PM. On the way, we stopped for our breakfast and also at DeoPrayag, the confluence of rivers Bhagirathi and Alaknanda. The river is henceforth called Ganga through out its journey of about 2510KM in the plains, till merging into the sea at Ganga Sagar into Bay of Bengal.
In Haridwar, we stayed GMVNL ’s TRH: Rahi Hotel room number 101. It was a luxury room on first floor with A/C and other amenities. Our driver: Mr. Ram Dayal informed us that his duty was only up to Haridwar and some body else would come tomorrow to take us to New Delhi. We said him good bye and wrote a good feed back, in recognition of his good and sincere services to us.
In the evening, we went to see the famous Ganga Arti at the banks of the river Ganga. After the Arti was over at about 7:30 PM, we did some shopping, took our dinner at the Rahi hotel.
Day-12 TuesDay - 30-6-2009 Haridwar- New Delhi ( By car 200 KM - via Rorkee, Khatauli, Meerut , Ghaziabad).
The new Car was a Toyota Qualis Regn. No. UA 07A-7135 and driver was Pt. Kishori Lal Thapariwal. Soon after we started from Haridwar, we went to see the famous Ashram set up by Swami Ram Deo at theout-skirts of Haridwar city on way to New Delhi. My wife and I have had occasions to visit this place earlier, but for our other trip- members, it was their first visit. They were more anxious to see the place, as they were medical doctors’ family and also have been regularly following a Yoga-regime.
Swami Ram Deo’ s ashram from out side looked more like a corporate building, but from in side was very impressively organized, neat and clean. There was not much rush in the building at that hour of time, except in the canteen side area, where we took our breakfast of cut-fruits-salad and
sweet wheat Dalia. we did stroll in the area where yoga classes were in session and purchased some membership of monthly journals and VCD/books from the respective counters.
We reached a place called “Noida –More” at about 2:30 PM, from where we departed for our home. We said good-bye to our respected tour mates by a loving hug and with promise to be in touch in future also.
We shall cherish the memory of our Char Dham tour till the rest of our lives.
Dr.A. K. Srivastava
Note:- 1. This gist of our Char Dham tour was written by me at the instance of our beloved Mr.
Sanjaya (Gopal-Shalini) Srivastava, of San Jose, California, U.S.A.
2. Some of the information about various temples has been taken from various sources
available at the net.