A visit to Gujrat state ( Central, Kathiavad, and Saurashtra regions) and Diu ( union Territory) ,India (February 06-14, 201

A visit to Gujarat state (Central, Kathiavad, and Saurashtra regions) and Diu (Union Territory), India (February 06-14, 2010)

‘Do not dwell in the past, do not dream of the future; Concentrate the mind on the present moment’-

Visits are like spicy movies. Once you commence the journey, many small themes are get added to the big theme. You are less fortunate, when you choose to go by Air. Rail and Road journeys provide you with an opportunity to read, know, under-stand the human behavior at large, besides the places you choose to visit. During our this Gujarat trip, we were practically ”on road” for most of the time. Road trips can be a nightmare if one gets stranded or lose tracks. Embarking on a journey without a map is like scuba diving without your air tank. Better don’t forget to mark out your routes, exits and ideal rest- stops, before you head out for the journey. Also, take note of all interesting sites and events and make sure you explore them. Half of the fun of a road trip is to see as you travel. Go, explore and live it as if there is no tomorrow! . Then, it would turn out to be a memorable bliss!!

Gujarat region of western India has always been attracting the people since centuries, because of its nascent scenic beauty, long fertile plane lands, dense forests, last home to famous Asiatic Gir Lions, beautiful sea-shores, generally enterprising but simple & honest country men, good spicy-foods, rich cultural heritage and great Hindu temples like Somnath, Dwarkadhish, Swami Narayan Akshardham temples etc. and other places of religious and spiritual significance. It is said that in making of present day Mumbai ( earlier Bombay- as financial and commercial capital of Independent India) the contribution of enterprising Gujarati’ s, as Gujarat being a part of then Bombay state, is immense. For that reason, Gujarati’s has always been enjoying bigger and important space in commercial horizon of developed western world like U.S.A., Canada, U . K. etc. Most of the motels, grocery shops, eateries and other businesses are owned by Gujarati s in U.S.A. ,U.K., Middle-east. Dwarkadhish temple has always been in the focus of Hindu spiritual-map, being one of the most important pilgrimage-Dhams (centers). As per Hindu traditions, in order to wash-off the accumulated sins in ones life-time and salvage the purity of spirits, every person is expected to visit in his/her life-time all the four Dhams, namely Dwarka in Gujarat (Western India), Rameshwaram in Tamilnadu (Southern-India), Jagannath Puri in Orissa (Eastern India), and Badrinath in Garhwal region of Uttarakhand (Northern India). It is believed that to revive the lost prestige of Hinduism and to unite the country in one bond, the 8^th century saint, philosopher Jagad Guru Sri Adi Shankaracharya built above said four pilgrimage centers in four corners of India. Among them Dwarka in the west, situated at Arabian sea shores is considered to be amongst the most pious, as it was the abode of Lord Krishna.

Lord Krishna's great grandson, Vajranabha, is said to have built the original temple of Dwarkadheesh over the hari-griha (Lord Krishna's residential place). The sanctum of the temple is formed by the Jagat Mandir, or Nija Mandir, which dates back at least 2500 years (Archeological Survey of India have estimated it 3500-5000 years old).

I have always been attracted towards Gujarat & near by places and wishing to visit these places, both because of its famous natural beauty, great flora and fauna, vibrant present day modernization and industrialization, beside being home and work place to many big and famous persons in the history and other spiritual & religious places of great importance. Mahatma Gandhi, Sardar Ballabh B. Patel, Kanahiyalal Maniklal Munshi, Dhiru B Ambani, among many and in institutions I.I.M. Ahmedabad, Indian Institute of Physics (where the data collected in 2009 from Chandrayan-I, the first moon mission of India- was analyzed and presence of water in form of snow has been invented for the first time), National Institute of Design, Gandhinagar etc are some of the great modern day names, which prop-up to our mind immediately. Who does not know Mahatma Gandhi, as apostle of Peace and father of Indian state? Even United Nations are

Celebrating his birth day on 2^nd October every year as Non-violence day. Sardar Ballabh Bhai Patel had made tremendous contributions at the time of partition of India, as the home minister in First Union cabinet, as the then nawab of Junagarh, under whose state the famous temples of Dwarkadhish and Somnath were situated, wanted to merge with and move to Pakistan. Thanks God! we are saved of the situation wherein as a Hindu we’ll would have been compelled to go on pilgrimage to Pakistan. On revolt from the people of Junagarh, finally the nawab migrated to Pakistan himself .The Lord Krishna lived in Dwarka and died in a forest near present day Somnath at the confluence of rivers Hiranmayi, Kapila and Saraswati and their sangam with Arabian ocean. I have had earlier visited many of the places in Gujarat, over in last 3 decades, some places several times on official assignments viz. Baroda (now Vadodara) ,Ahmedabad, Kalol, Surat, Hazira, Bharuch, Ankaleshwar etc, but it was largely confined to finishing the job as soon as possible and rush back to home. I have had earlier heard in the family that my maternal grand-parents: late Sri Shital Prasad Srivastava and late Mrs. Mangala Srivastava had made visits to Dwarka for pilgrimage about 55 years back. As available infra-structural facilities were very meager in those days, it took them weeks to complete the journey.

I, along with my wife: Mrs. Shanti Srivastava, after considering various available options in the market, chose one of the packages offered by Southern Travels Pvt. Ltd., Mumbai (STL), for the Gujarat trip, starting from Ahmedabad. It was scheduled to be completed in 7days/6nights. The scope of the STL’ s package contained all travel (by driver+2-persons) in AC Car and lodging arrangements in the Deluxe-rooms (with breakfast) in Star/ luxury Hotels, with all toll/road taxes, parking charges, etc. Food and other incidentals were excluded from the package as to provide flexibility/economy to the package. We found their medium paced itinerary was more suitable to us. Generally, on a single day we traveled by car 100-350 KM s, but as road conditions in Gujarat are good, there was no adverse strain and also no need to travel after sun-set.

As per the STL’s itinerary, our Gujarat tour was to start from Ahmedabad and we were supposed to go first to Jamnagar, then Dwarka/Bet Dwarka, then Porbandar /SomNath , then Som Nath Gir sasan, Diu( Union Territory), then Junagarh and finally to Ahmedabad / Gandhinagar, before its culmination at Ahmedabad on the 7th day evening. During the said itinerary, we were scheduled to stay at Hotel celebration at Jamnagar, Hotel Dwarika Residency at Dwarka, Safari Hotel & Resorts at SomNath , Radhika Resorts at Diu, Leo Resorts at Junagarh, and finally at Hotel Host Inn, Ahmedabad. We extended our stay at Ahmedabad for one more day and switched stay to Hotel Pinnacle (a three star hotel), near Ellis-bridge, Ashram road.

Our group was a party of 3 individuals comprising both of us and our driver-guide: Mr. Pawan (M: 91-9714355384). He is a Hindi speaking Rajasthani originally from the famous Krishna pilgrimage place: Nath-Dwara, Udaipur, but also very fluent in local Gujrati Kathiawadi, and Saurashtri. Driver Pawan is in his late twenties, neat and clean and without any known vices for liquor, Pan/Pan-parag, tobacco, common to many long haul drivers. He made a good company to us and was caring, cooperative and amicable. Our car for the said journey was a White Tata- Indigo Taxi , Regn. No: GJ - 18U-0801.

We started our journey by rail by Ashram Express in the evening (scheduled departure time) at 3:05 PM at Delhi Railway Station. The train was scheduled to arrive Ahmedabad on 07^th Feb’10 at 07.25 AM.

The train started in time at Delhi Railway station. My grand- son: Master Pranjal and son Dr. Biplav Srivastava went to see us off at the station. I always like train-journeys, as it provide lot of uninterrupted time to read books and other materials and also opportunity to meet / discuss various issues under the sun with fellow travelers. This time also I had lot of reading- materials with me. But some times the rail-journeys are not welcome. There was no pantry-car attached to this train, so the quality of tea/food served on the train by vendors was not of acceptable quality. Many of the co-travelers in our 2AC coach were railway board/ Delhi Metro employees, on official trips, and provided stories/details on the other side of the table. They also had to suffer like any common passengers.

Day 2:February 07,2010: Sunday Ahmedabad- Jamnagar (By Road: South West :350 KM s)

On 07-02-2010 morn, as the train was about 2 ½ hours late, in order to gain time and avoid morning time city traffic, we decided to get down from the train at the Sabarmati Railway station, instead of going to Ahmedabad Railway station directly, as planned. Also, we asked our driver to come down and pick-us up at Sabarmati, Railway station. The train arrived at sabarmati at about 09:30 AM.

Just after our getting down at Sabarmati Railway station, as it was a Sunday-morning, and traffic on the road was not much, we went Through Ahmedabad city for some time and found it generally green, nicely appointed and clean. It is certainly different than what I saw it about 10 years back. On the way, we took our breakfast at the famous Ahmedabad’ s Gujarati restaurant: Gawali. The same restaurant supplies sweets and other breakfast items to Ahmedabad-New Delhi Rajdhani express rail train, besides to some low budget Airlines..

After leaving the Ahmedabad city and industrial area in the suburbs, we were excited to see a lot more greenery in the fields, on both side of the road. The visibly different in color fertile-black-soil is the land- mark of Gujarat’ s plains. In the crops it was mostly wheat, cotton, jawar/ millets of different varieties; paddy and sugar-cane in some fields, where good irrigation facilities by way of bore-wells are available, besides spices like jeera (cumin seeds), saunf etc. It was told to us that, of late, the water table in these fields have gone high, because of more than a lakh of catchment-dams constructed in recent years in Gujarat and use of drip-irrigation techniques, to save water. On the way we did stop and visited some fields and collected cotton buds and fully blown-up cotton-balls, intact with the stems, as souvenir.

On the way to Jamnagar, we touched towns like Limbdi, Sayla, Chotila, Rajkot ,Gondal, Jetpur etc. At Chotila, about 35KM before Rajkot town, we met with a famous temple of goddess Chamunda, on a hillocks. It is highly respected through out Gujarat and many people came back for special puja /offerings, after their wish was fulfilled. After industrial town of Rajkot, which is famous for machinery goods, I observed many hillocks on both side of the high way, spreading in about 25-30 Sq. KM area, where one can mine stone-grits directly, of different sizes, suitable for road and other construction purposes. These grits do not require any further sizing/ processing. It is unique, as normally hillocks contain large boulders and its mining & sizing pose great problems. The weather was good. The temperature was around 32-35 deg C and it was breezy but still AC in the car was required, as humidity was more.

We reached Jamnagar city at about 3=45 PM and checked-in the “Hotel Celebration” (near Gurdwara circle, Indira Gandhi Marg, Jamnagar, Phone no.+0288- 2555523 / 2662224 / 2662225, Fax No.0288-2557777) in room no.306.The hotel is centrally located and its rooms are spacious and nicely appointed. Though, we did not have our formal lunch, we ordered some snacks/tea at the hotel and took rest.

Jamnagar is today known as 'Oil City' because the world's biggest oil refinery belonging to Reliance Industries and a smaller one belonging to Essar Oil are located in Jamnagar. It was earlier known as 'Brass City', the city housing more than 5,000 large scale and 10,000 small scale units manufacturing brass items in and around the industrial estates of Shankar Tekari, Udhyognagar, M P Shah Udhyognagar and Dared. Nearly 200 tons of brass goods are produced in this area daily.

Because of its magnificent palaces, water bodies and town planning, Jamnagar was called the Paris of Western India. In the evening, visited the famous Ambedkar Park, Lakhota lake (museum was closed being Sunday evening),’Sri Ram Jai Ram Jai-Jai Ram temple- all in the city’. The Ambedkar-park is nicely maintained and located in the heart of the city. There was some traffic and parking restrictions in the area, being a Sunday - evening and lot of walking was involved. The park was crowded with people but mostly with children and young couples. Lakhota Palace, built as a drought relief measure by Seth Ranmalji, on an island in the center of the bird rich Jamsarovar Lake. The Lakhota lake is a big lake and a museum is located in the center of the lake. The museum was closed being Sunday evening. On the trees at the banks of the lake and on both sides of the roads a large number of birds have made their home. The birds were a bit bigger than the normal size house- sparrow, black and white in color, with black neck. They mostly flown in formations, in hoards of thousands. They made a good sight to the eyes as did cross each group swiftly, in formations, like waves, zig- zag , many times, with-out hurting/clashing/trouncing with the opposite groups. While taking photos one needed to be extra alert, as whole operation was done swiftly in a fraction of a second. I did take some photographs, as sky was full of thousands and thousands of birds. How environmentally sound and friendly is this city to birds? In the metro, only very lucky ones could see a bird!

Opposite the lake, there is a church and a famous temple with name Bal hanuman Temple and also commonly referred as ’Sri Ram Jai Ram Jai-Jai Ram temple’. We had darshan and participated at the evening Arti (which starts at 7:30 PM), at the temple. The Bal hanuman Temple also known as Sri Ram Jai Ram Jai-Jai Ram temple’ is famous and has been mentioned in the ‘Guinness Book of World Records’ being the only temple where the Ram-Dhun (chanting of Sri Ram Nam as Sri Ram Jai Ram Jai-Jai Ram) is continued, with out any break since last about 46 years( the day we visited-- on Sunday, dated 07-02-2010 it was precisely 16,626^th day).Volunteers sing the ‘ram dhun’ in a group of 3 or 4 persons, all 24x7x365.

We planned to have local Gujarati- Kathiavadi cuisines for dinner, and ordered a deluxe thali at famous ‘Sai Sita Ram restaurant’, 2 Km away from the temple. The restaurant is not fancy, food was also moderate but service was excellent. Night halt at the ‘ celebration Hotel’.

Day 3:February 08,2010: Monday Jamnagar- Dwarka /Bet Dwarka (By Road: SouthWest : 135+35 KM s)

Started from the Jamnagar at 08:40AM and reached Dwarka by 10:25AM. On the way, at about 30KM from the city, on right side of the road ’Reliance Refinery’, the largest in the world at one location, and GSFC’ s Sikka fertilizer plants are located. As soon as, we reached Dwarka, we went to see the Dwarkadhish temple in the center of the city.

In the middle of the Dwarka town is the present day Dwarkadhish Temple, which was built in the 16th century. Dwarkadish is another name of Lord Krishna that means the "Lord of Dwarka". The five-storey high temple is built on seventy-two pillars, using indigenously available sand stone. The carvings in the temple are worth seeing. The temple spire is 78.3m (235 feet) high. From the temple dome waves an eighty-four foot long multicolored flag decorated with the symbols of the sun and moon. Lord Krishna's great grandson, Vajranabha, is said to have built the original temple of Dwarkadhish over the hari-griha (Lord Krishna's residential place). The sanctum of the temple is formed by the Jagat Mandir, or Nija Mandir, which dates back at least 2500 years (Archeological Survey of India have estimated it 2500-5000 years old). The Jagat Mandir has a tall tower and a hall of audience. There are two entrances to the temple. The main entrance (north entrance) is called "Moksha Dwara" (Door to Salvation). This entrance leads to the main market. The south entrance is called "Swarga Dwara" (Gate to Heaven). Outside this doorway are 56 steps that lead to the Gomati River. The idol of Ranchhodrai another name of Lord Krishna- the ruler of Dwarika is made of shiny black stone called ‘Shaligram’ and is about 2.25 ft in height. The four hands of the Lord carries a conch, wheel, a metallic weapon and a lotus each and is popularly known as 'Shankh Chakra Gada Padma Chaturbhuj'. It is said that the idol was hidden for years to protect it from invaders while another idol brought from the Rukmini temple was installed in its absence. The original idol was reinstalled during the 16th century after the construction of the new temple. Amongst the large number of temples belonging to different periods in the history of Dwarka, the most popular with pilgrims is the temple of Rukmini , Lord Krishna's wife, who is considered an incarnation of Lakshmi, the goddess of wealth and beauty. There are about 20 other small temples in the complex, devoted to the immediate family members of Lord Krishna, his Guru and others.

There is a temple to the right of the main Deity that contains the Deity of Lord Baladevaji (Balarama), Krishna’s older brother.

The temple to the left of the main Deity contains a large deity of Pradyumna and a smaller deity of Aniruddha, the son and grandson of Lord Krishna respectively. Opposite this shrine is the shrine of Purusottama (Vishnu). Next to that shrine is the shrine dedicated to Kuseswara Mahadeva (Siva).

The shrine across from Lord Dwarkadhish holds the deity of Devaki, Lord Krishna’s mother. Next to her is a temple dedicated to Veni-madhava (Lord Vishnu). In back of the main temple, in the eastern part of the temple compound, are shrines of Radha, Jambavati, Satyabhama, and Lakshmi. There are also shrines of Saraswati and Lakshmi-Narayan.

About the history of Dwarka (in Hindi it is written and read as Dwarika), many excavations have taken place in the past. It is now widely believed that in all, eight settlements can be distinguished at Dwarka (IAR 1979-0, 22 ff). The first settlement made in the 15th century BC was submerged or washed away and so also the

second one made in the 10th century BC. After a long gap the third settlement was made in the 1st century BC/AD as suggested by the Red Polished Ware and copper coins known as Kansya Varna. It is during this phase that Temple I was built. The lime-plastered surface of its stone masonry still retaining a few lines of red ochre painting suggests that the plinth was open to view above the then working level. After the sea destroyed the first temple the second temple came to be built on the ruins of the first. When the second temple was also destroyed, the third temple dedicated to Vishnu or Vasudeva was built in the 9th century. It was perhaps in the 12th century a storm-wave blew away the roof leaving only the walls and plinth.

The fourth temple came into existence soon after. The present day temple of Dwarkadhish is the fifth in the series. Temples I to V represent respectively settlements III to VII and the modern town is the eighth settlement at Dwarka.

The Dwarkadhis temple opens between 07:00 AM to 12 Noon in the first half and from 05:00 PM to 09:30 PM in the evening. Mangal Aarti starts at 07:00AM,Sringar Aarti at 10:30 AM, Rajbhog at 12:00 noon and Uthapan at 05:00PM,Sandhya Aarti at 7:30 PM, Shayan Aarti at 8:30 PM, before final close at 09:30PM.

At Dwarkadish temple, we met a temple priest: Mr. Dipak Kantilal Pathak/ his brother Mr. Omkar Kantilal Pathak( Mobile Nos: +91-98249 72876/ 94296 02374) ,who took us around the temple, organized Shringar Aarti darshan, puja and Tula-Dan( charity of ration and other food-items equivalent to ones own weight- in our case it was equivalent to total of my wife and mine own weight i.e. just less than 130 Kg. It consisted of 112 Kg wheat, 3 kg rice, 3 Kg Tur Dal, 3 Kg Moong dal , 3 Kg sugar,3Kg Pure ghee and 3 Kg Mustard oil.).We never had experience of this type of charity earlier in our life.

After the darshan at the temple, we checked-in room No.107, The Hotel ‘Dwarka Residency’, about 1 ½ KM away from the temple, near Iskon Gate, Dwarka-361 335 (Phone nos. +2892-235032/91-98251 91744; Fax No.+2892-235033). After some rest and lunch , we started for Bet Dwarka ,which is an island , stationed at the middle of the Arabian Sea. Bet Dwarka is situated next to the coastal town of Okha. Bet Dwarka, as it is assumed, is the remnant of a reclaimed land which was borrowed from the ocean to build a beautiful city of Dwarika. It is about one hour ride, more than 35Kms away from Dwarka and 25 minutes boat ride in the Arabian sea, from jetty at Okha. The entire trip to the island from the town of Dwarka will take at least four hours. Boats usually depart only when are full, and they can seat a hundred passengers. People are seen feeding hoards of white colored birds, I guess, -sea gulls, who fly along the boats, many times very close to head of passengers / float on the sea- water throughout the journey. The scenic beauty of jetty side of Bet Dwarka is very special and one would like to sit down and just gaze the natural beauty.On the way, we have seen Tata Chemicals Mithapur Common Salt and Soda Ash plants.

Bet Dwarka Island, founded in the Gulf of Kutch, is also known as Bet Shankhodhara. The Bet Dwarka ford is said to be lord Krishna’s residential /recreational/game resorts. The Bet Dwarka has a Krishna Temple dedicated to the Lord, as Lord Krishna had stayed here for a long time with his family members.

Krishna Temple of Gujarat is among the major sites of Bet Dwarka. The temple built on a reclaimed land has beautiful carvings and architecture that attracts the attention of the tourists. The Krishna Temple of Bet Island is adorned with jharokahs typical to the Gujarati style. One can enjoy the natural beauty of the ambiance of Bet Dwarka through these jharokhas The Dwarkadhish Temple here is open in the morning and again at 5 pm. When the temple opens at 5 pm, there is a mad rush to see the deities. There is also a Balarama temple (Dauji) here. Bet Dwarka is where Sudama Brahman is said to have met Lord Krishna. The present day Bet Dwarka ford is about 250/300 years old and is constructed of locally found sand -stone and woods and presently is under repairs by ASI in its supervision. We have seen the main Dwarkadhis temple, where it is said the famous Hindi poetess and princess of Udaipur state in Rajasthan: Meera Bai went inside the temple and did not emerge out. She become a light-beam and merged with the deity. The concept of rain harvesting was there about 2500 years back. We have seen the old well for storing the drinking water from the natural rains. The architecture and lay out are based on Hindu vastu –shastra principles, as the temples of Lord Krishna’s guru and mother being important have frontal-position in the total layout. We were back to Dwarkadhis temple, just right for the evening arti time. We attended the evening arti/ darshan and took our dinner at famous Gujarati cuisine restaurant’ Shyam Sadan

Bhojnalaya’, just about 1 KM away from the temple. It is a place for authentic Gujarati food lovers. Stayed in the night at room no.107, Dwarka Residency.

We regret as could not go to see the famous Siddheshwar Mahadev temple, situated in the city itself, devoted to Lord Shanker Mahadev, a jyotirlinga, for want of time.

Day 4:February 09,2010: Tuesday Dwarka- Porbandar- Somnath (By Road: SouthEast : 135+100 KM s)

Started for Porbandar (earlier known as Sudama Puri, being the abode of great saint, Sri Krishna ‘s friend and devotee) at about )8=15 AM. The weather was very pleasant- breezy, low temperature and a bit cloudy. On the way, on the both side of the highway at some lakes/water bodies, we have seen thousands and thousands of white migratory birds, swarming at all possible spots, be it trees, some big grass plants, elevated hillocks , even making rounds in the sky. We stopped to capture some of the scenes in our camera, At about 65 KM from Dwarka, reached the famous ‘Har Siddhi Temple’. The temple is devoted to goddess Har Siddhi. The old temple is on the hillock, and a new temple is constructed at the bottom of the hillock, by the side of the road. Since it was very crowded in this hour of morning, we could not go inside and did namaskar from the outside only. We decided to proceed for the next stop. After about 85 KM from Dwarka,, we stopped at ‘Mul Dwarka’ temple, devoted to Lord Krishna. The temple complex has about 12 other small, but beautiful temples, devoted to various gods / goddesses. It is said that Lord Krishna made this place his first halt, after escaping from Mathura, attacks from Gaya king Jarashandh. As per another myth a devotee named ‘Mulla Bhagat’ lived here and performed seva to Lord Krishna .

Reached Porbandar at about 10:30 AM and directly went to see ‘Kirti Mandir’ – the famous birth- place of the father of the nation: Mahatma Gandhi. The house in kept in good condition and now maintained by the ASI. It is a puckka 3 level, 22 rooms house, purchased by the great grand father of Mahatma Gandhi: Sri Hari Jeewan Gandhi, in the year 1777 AD from one Mrs. Mani Ben. The house is based on the Indian architecture, on a ‘goumukh-cow’s mouth-shape’ plot of size 40’x76’. The front is narrow and the back side of the plot is large. The house is constructed of using lime- stone and woods and is not different to other houses of that era. The father of the nation: Mahatma Gandhi was born here in a small room, where a swastik symbol is made, on the second floor of the building, on 2^nd October 1869 AD to Mrs. Putali Bai Gandhi and Mr. Karam Chand Gandhi, S/O Mr. Uttam Chand ji Gandhi, S/O Mr. Hari Jeewan Gandhi, S/O Mr. RahiDas Gandhi. The other section of the building like museum, the photo gallery, library etc are new construction and are maintained by a society (Gandhi Smarak Nidhi) run by the Gujarat Govt. The museum and the photo gallery have many memorable items/photographs of that era and are nicely maintained. The library is not kept in order, as we find it is least professionally managed. I did write the same in the visitors’ book.

Went to see the ‘Sudama Temple’ in the heart of the city, about 1 ½ KM from the Kirty Mandir. The location of the temple and its huge area are very good. But it is not properly maintained.

Started from Porbandar for Sonnath (about 100KM away) at about 11=45 AM. The road is generally good, barring at some places, and one has to travel along the Arabian-sea, via Navibandar, Madhavpur, Mangrol, chorwad. On the way, at a road side dhaba we had our lunch of Rotala (thick and large chapatti made of millet flour & pure ghee smacked on it- a local Gujarati preparation, generally eaten in the country side),butter milk, Kathiawadi kadhi and dry green- vegetable. This part of the Gujarat, especially the Junagarh District and near the Somnath temple area are very green and fertile. We reached Somnath at about 02:30PM.Checked in ‘Safari hotel and Resort’ [at veraval- Kodinar highway, near Somnath Bypass, Veraval, Somnath, Saurashtra-Gujarat—Ph. Nos.: +91 2876 232355 / 232812, Mobile: 91-98249 65373,website: www.safariresortsomnath.com] at room no.105.

About the Somnath Temple: The Somnath Temple (Gujarati:સોમનાથ મંદિર) located in the Prabhas Kshetra near Veraval in Saurashtra, on the western coast of Gujarat, India is the most sacred of the twelve Jyotirlings (lingas of light) of the God Shiva. Somnath means "The Protector of Moon God". The Somnath Temple is known as 'the Shrine Eternal', as although the temple has been destroyed six times it has been rebuilt every single time, on the last occasion, it was built after a plan was mooted by Sardar Vallabhbhai Patel in November 1947, when he visited the area for Indian Integration of Junagadh, and later after his

death carried out by K.M. Munshi, also a Minister in Government of India. Somnath temple stands at the shore of the Arabian ocean on the western corner of Indian subcontinent in Gujarat State. This pilgrimage is one of the oldest and finds its reference in the ancient texts like Skandpuran, Shreemad Bhagavat, Shivpuran etc. The hymn from Rig-Veda also quoted mention of the Bhagvan Someshwar along with the great pilgrimage like Gangaji, Yamunaji and Eastward Saraswati. This signifies the ancient value of this Tirthdham.

The Moon God is said to have been relieved from the curse of his father-in-law Daksha Prajapati by the blessings of Bhagvan Somnath. In the Shiva Purana and Nandi Upapurana, Shiva said, `I am always present everywhere but specially in 12 forms and places as the jyotirlingas`. Somnath is one of these 12 holy places. This is the first among the twelve holy Shiva Jyotirlings.

The shore temple of Somnath is believed to have been built in 4 phases-in gold by moon god Lord Soma, in silver by sun god Ravi , in wood by lord Krishna and in stone by King Bhimadeva. It has withstood the six-repeated desecration by the Muslim invaders. The very existence of this temple is symbol of reconstructive spirit and cultural unity of Indian society. The seventh existing temple is built in the Kailas Mahameru Prasad style , in the Chalukya style of temple architecture and reflects the skill of the Sompuras, Gujarat's master masons. The temple is consisting of Garbhgruh, Sabhamandap and Nrityamandap with a 150 feet high Shikhar. The Kalash at the top of the Shikhar weighs 10 tons and the Dhwajdand is 27 feet tall and 1 foot in circumference. In 1951 Dr. Rajendra Prasad, the first President of India, who performed the Jyotirling-Pratishthapan ceremony of the new Temple said, "The Somnath Temple signifies that the power of creation is always greater than the power of destruction."

The Abadhit Samudra Marg, Tirsthambh (Arrow) indicates the unobstructed sea route to the South Pole. The nearest land towards South Pole is about 9936 km. away. This is a wonderful indicator of the ancient Indian wisdom of geography and strategic location of the Jyotirling. The temple renovated by Maharani Ahalyabai is adjacent to the main temple complex.

Hari Har Tirthdham is here in Somnath. This is the holy place of Bhagvan Shri Krishna's Neejdham Prasthan Leela. The place where Bhagvan Shri Krishna was hit by an arrow of a poacher is known as Bhalka Tirtha. After being hit by the arrow, Bhagvan Shri Krishna arrived at the holy confluence of Hiran, Kapila and Saraswati and their Sangam with the ocean. He performed his divine Neejdham Prasthan Leela (it is said he proceeded to Baikunth dham in form of lightning in the sky and no formal rituals were performed) at the sacred and peaceful banks of river Hiran.

The Geetamandir is built here where the divine message of Shrimad Bhagavat Geeta is carved on eighteen marble pillars. Shri Lakshminarayan Mandir is close by. The Balramjiki Gufa is the place from where Bhagvan Shrikrishna's elder brother Balaramji took journey to his nijdham-patal. Here is the Parshuram Tapobhumi, where Bhagvan Parshuram ji carried out penance and he was relieved from the sin of Kshatriya killings. The Pandavas have said to have visited this place and taken holy bath in the Jalprabhas and built five Shiv temples.

The temple opens at 06:00AM-09: 30 PM, morning Aarti at 07:00AM, then at 12:00 Noon and 07:00PM, Light and sound show at 07:45PM. We had very good darshan at the temple in the evening and participated in the 07:00PM Aarti. The beautiful mid- February evening, great surroundings in the temple complex, magnificent temple architecture in pink stones ( no cement and steel is used in the whole construction and the stones interlock each other as usual to Hindu architecture), presence of thousands of devotees from across corners of India and abroad, many submerged in supreme devotion, even some crying with joy, chanting of vedic mantras by a dozen of priests, Aarti by head-priest in the sanctum sanctorum and his associates out side created an unusual environment at the Aarti time, which was so divine and awesome that only you can see and experience, but may not be able to narrate honestly in words. We also attended the Light and Sound show, which was useful to understand the importance of this famous pilgrimage and tourist spot. Dinner and night-stay at the ’Hotel Safari’. The location of the hotel is very central and about 1 ½ KM from the temple, rooms are neat and clean, but lack luxury, common near to pilgrimage places.

Day 5:February 10,2010: Wednesday : Somnath- Gir Sasan- Diu (By Road: South West : 40+96 KM s)

Since the chances to get sight of the Asiatic Gir Lions in the open jungle is more in the cool morning hours, we decided to leave the ‘Safari hotel’ room at about 07:30 AM for Sasan Gir. It was pleasant cool, breezy February morning and we were very hopeful to get the good sight of the Lions. Since it was about 40KM s away, we were sure to reach in time to the sanctuary. On the way we took our breakfast at ‘Talala’ town ( about 18 KM s before Sasan), at a local road side halwai shop of hot-Phaphada( a Gujarati dish, prepared with gram flour, wheat flour mixed with spices and deep fried, but light, tasty and easily digestible) and hot- jelebi. Reached Sasan-Gir forest (formally called Gir national Park and wild life sanctuary, and

maintained by the GOI, Department of Environment & Forests and wildlife) at about 08:50 AM. It was informed to us that being Wednesday the departmental tours in the jungle are not conducted on that particular day. Diesel and petrol cars are not allowed in the forests. Hence, we hired a private CNG jeep (Rs. 700/-), procured a forest-permit to go in side the jungle (Rs. 400/-) and a guide (Rs.100/-), and shared it with another family of Mr. Ajit Ojha from Rajkot.. We went in side the jungle and roamed for about 2 ½ hours, driving on the dart-roads, up and down, crossing the plains, hillocks, small water bodies, streams (many animals found drinking water). The jungle looked so beautiful, calm, peaceful, but occasionally interrupted with chirpings of birds, full of life with hundreds of variety of flora and fauna, many trees in full bloom, greenery all along. Animals roaming in open, some playing with each others in hoards, without any inhibition.

The Gir Forest National Park and Wildlife Sanctuary (also known as Sasan-Gir and गिर वन) is a forest and wildlife sanctuary in Gujarat, India. Established in 1965, with a total area of 1412 km² (about 258 km² for the fully protected area (the National Park) and 1153 km² for the Sanctuary), the park is located 65 km to the Sasan Gir Wildlife Sanctuary

south-east of Junagadh.

The rugged topography and a moderate and favorable climate support a wide variety of flora and fauna in Sasan Gir National Park. The vegetation in Sasangir chiefly comprises of dry deciduous forests dominated by short and gnarled teak trees, thorn bushes and grassland. Sasan Gir National Park supports over count of 2,375 distinct fauna species of Gir includes about 38 species of mammals, around 300 species of birds, 37 species of reptiles and more than 2,000 species of insects.

The carnivores group mainly comprises Asiatic lions, Indian Leopards, Sloth bears, Jungle cats, Striped Hyenas, Golden Jackals, Indian Mongoose, Indian Palm Civets, and Ratels. Desert cats and Rusty-spotted cats exist but are rarely seenThough, Sasangir is known for Asiatic Lions( counted 359 in May 2005 by “Block-Direct-Total Count" method by employing around 1,000 forest officials, experts and volunteers., 150 adult male, 90cubs and 119 females, but reported 71 deaths in 2010,one by poisoning and 70 for natural causes), the park also harbors a sizable population of Leopards (351 in May 2005), who are more visible here than in other wildlife sanctuaries of India.

The main herbivores of Gir are Chital, Nilgai (or Bluebull), Sambar, Four-horned Antelope, Chinkara and Wild boar. Blackbucks from the surrounding area are sometimes seen in the sanctuary.Other important and commonly noticed mammals in Sasangir are Spotted Deer or Chital (numbering about 30, 000), Antelopes, Striped Hyenas, Jackals, Barking Deer, Wild Boar, Ruddy Mongoose, Langurs, Jungle Cats, Indian Porcupine, Chinkara, Gazelles and Crocodiles to name a few.

Among the smaller mammals, Porcupine and Hare are common but the Pangolin is rare. The reptiles are represented by the mugger Marsh crocodile (highest population among all protected areas in India), the Indian Star Tortoise and the Monitor Lizard in the water areas of the sanctuary. Snakes are found in the bushes and forest. Pythons are sighted at times along the stream banks. Gir has been used by the Gujarat State Forest Department which adopted the Indian Crocodile Conservation Project in 1977 and released close to 1000 Marsh crocodile reared in Gir rearing centre into the Kamaleshwar lake and other reservoirs and small water bodies in and around Gir.

Redheaded Merlin, Bonelli's Hawk Eagle, Crested Serpent Eagle, Painted Sandgrouse, Blossom-headed Parakeet, Spotted dove, Spotted Owlet, Flycatchers, Woodpeckers, Flamingo etc.

One of the major attractions for tourists visiting Sasan Gir National Park is to enjoy a lion safari. Jeep safari is the most enjoyable and convenient way to explore the rich and varied wildlife of Sasangir Wildlife Sanctuary and is very popular among tourists here. A lion safari in the Gir Interpretation Zone (4 sq km area in the park) almost guarantees a lion sighting. In addition several watchtowers and hides have been raised near waterholes, to enjoy a close sights of the lions and other wilds of the sanctuary.

As feared, all our efforts and pains went in vain. We could not get a glimpse of any Gir Lions, though we could see lot of fresh foot pug-marks of the lion and its family along the dart road at many places, others tourists in different jeeps could see the lions. As the park- area is about 1412 sq KM, and a lion family has a territory of about 35/40 KM, it is sear luck if one happens to see the lion. We were very disappointed. What we could see as solace was lot of Chital, Nilgai (or Bluebull), Sambar, Four-horned Antelope, Chinkara and Wild boar. Blackbucks ,Spotted Deer or Chital (many in hoards), Antelopes, Striped Hyenas, Jackals, Ruddy Mongoose, red and black faced Languor-monkeys, Jungle Cats, Indian Porcupine, different variety of birds, butterfly etc. We stopped the jeep at many places and taken photographs, but our guide was very strict not to allow us to go down the jeep, as per him, lions generally do not attack once mounted on the jeep. We were disappointed but firm to come tomorrow again to the forest and try our luck. On the contrary, on our return, our driver casually asked me whether we could see lions? When we replied in negative, he told us his story on that morning that a group of 3-4 drivers went in side the jungle, just a few meters in side the forest’s boundary-walls for answering natural calls. They noticed to their utter horror a couple of Leopards hanging from the same tree, they were sitting under for the natural calls. They fled from the scene even half finished.

Started for Diu from Gir Sasan at about 11:30AM,about 100KM, through Kodimar, Dolasa (many times leaving the highways and taking through forests roads) and reached Diu (Union Territory-administered by Central Govt.) at 02:15PM.This particular area from Sasan-Gir is very green and fertile, as we have seen many Mango groves, Banana plantations, wheat crops, sugar cane fields along the roads.The current Gujarat Government did very praise worthy task of popularizing ’Kesaria‘ Mango plantations through out Gujarat and started them exporting to Middle- East and other countries.

At Diu stayed in room no.602, at ’Hotel Radhika Resorts’,a three star hotel, just opposite the Nagoa beach. (Nagoa,Diu-362520(UT),Ph-(+91-2875)252553/54/55,Fax:(+91-2875)252552,website-www.radhikaresort.com). The location of the hotel is unique.

In the afternoon after some rest, went to see the famous ’Diu Fort’, about 8 KM from the hotel. Diu Fort is one of the most beautiful forts in India that attracts tourists from across the world. Diu Fort lies in the strategic complex and located at a proximity to Passo Seco Fort, St Paul's Cathedral, Tad Fort, Panikotha fortress and Nagoa Fort, .Diu Fort is located on the coast of Diu Island along the Arabian Sea. Diu Fort was founded between 1535 and 1541, after a truce was signed between the Portuguese and the Sultan of Gujarat. The Diu fort-cum-castle offers a magnificent view at night, when the fort is decorated with colorful lights. The fort offers a kaleidoscopic view of Diu town, which is located very close to it, and its adjacent areas. Tourists come across old cannons and iron shells in this fort. We took some photographs of the plaque at the gate and other important places. The fort is not properly maintained, though it is looked after by ASI. Half of the Fort doubles as a prison for the local government. St Paul's Cathedral church is unique as it has the largest frontal decorated facet in any church in this area of the country. Nearby is the museum. It is not properly maintained and was found empty, when we visited in the evening. The museum has a large collection of wooden statues/ sculptures of Christian saints and most of them were made during early 1600AD.

The next location on our map was the famous Gangeshwar Temple and sun set point, both on the shore of the Arabian ocean.

The Gangeshwar Temple lies about 3 kilometers from Diu near the Fudam village of Daman and Diu. The Gangeshwar Temple is dedicated to the Lord Shiva and lingam. The Gangeshwar Temple is located near the sea- shore. The most remarkable feature of the Gangeshwar Temple is five shivlinga that lies amidst the

rocks and no ritual is offered in routine. The abhishekh is done naturally and they are lulled by the crystal clear tidal waves of the sea during high tides.

The Gangeshwar Temple has five well-defined lingas that are worshiped by the devotees. It is a well maintained notion of the people that these shiva lingas were established by the five famous Pandava brothers of the great epic Mahabharata during their anonymous stay in the jungle when they were banished for 12 years from their kingdom Hastinapur. The Gangeshwar Temple is worth visiting as it will unravel the beauty of nature as well as the interesting stories of the past.

Sun set point is another natural and beautiful places, worth spending some quality time in peace with your loved ones in Diu. It also doubles as memorial of about 194 Indian navy officers, who sacrificed their lives during India-Pakistan 1971 war, when Indian ship INS Khukri was attacked by 2 Pakistani torpedo .The ship was damaged badly and finally drowned. Over 18 officers and 176 sailors were lost in the sinking. The captain, Mahendra Nath Mulla, choose to go down with the sinking ship. He refused to abandon ship, and passed his life-jacket to a junior officer. He was reported to be in a saluting gesture while sinking down with Khukri. He was posthumously awarded India's second-highest military honour, the Maha Vir Chakra. A memorial to the dead sailors exists at Diu. The memorial constitutes a full-scale model of INS Khukri encased in a glass house, placed atop a hillock facing the sea. The memorial was inaugurated by Vice Admiral Madhvendra Singh as the flag officer commanding-in-chief.A light house is also situated nearby.

We returned to the hotel having fully enjoyed the day and had our dinner in the hotel room.

Day 6:February 11,2010: Thursday : Diu- Gir Sasan-Junagarh (By Road: South East : 96+65KMs)

In the morning, after tea we went for a morning walk at the Nagoa beach. It was very pleasant morning : temp. around 18 degree Celsius, cool , breezy and clear sky. We had a half sweater and walked for about 2-3 KM s on the beach, some times through the water waves from the sea. We had filmed some photographs of the beach, collected different variety (in size, color and shape) of shells, stones for our grand- children. The beach was neat and clean, and calm without of many visitors at that time in the morning. It reminded us our earlier days, about 40 years back just after marriage.

Started from Diu at 09:50AM for Sasan-Gir-Devaliya forests to again try our luck for seeing the great Asian Gir lions in their last habitat. On reaching Devaliya, it was informed that the Park timings are from 08=00AM to 11=00AM, again in the after noon from 03=00PM to 05=00PM. As we were to wait for about 3 hours, we went to see a privately managed agricultural farm nearby named ’ Bhavesh Farms”. It was lush green farm at the front, having a large number of fields for different crops, fruits and vegetable. The back-side of the farm has a jungle like huge area with a seasonal river, which was dry at that time and the attendant advised us not to go deep in the jungle, as being at the periphery of the forests, the wild animals are seen occasionally. There was a rest house at the first floor of the farm, where we stayed for some time. Took lunch at the restaurant of the guest- house. It was informed to us that the world record of having a photograph of maximum number of lions at a single place is five in a safari at Kenya. I was shown a photograph taken by some Gujarati lens men in forests of Gir Sasan, where eleven number small-big lions in a row are seen drinking water in a jungle river. I immediately purchased the DVD. In the after noon, went to see the lions at Gir Interpretation Zone, Devaliya.

Lions at Gir Interpretation Zone, Devaliya: Gir National Park and Sanctuary does not have a designated area for tourists. More than 1412 sq.KM is a big area and many times it is not possible to get a glimpse of the lions,even with best efforts.However, to reduce the tourism hazard to the wildlife and to promote nature education, an Interpretation Zone has been created at Devaliya within the sanctuary. 12km from Sasan Gir, there are lions in a 4 sq km fenced off area, which basically guarantees a sighting of the lions. Within its chained fences, it covers all habitat types and wildlife of Gir with its feeding-cum-living cages for the carnivores and a double-gate entry system.The target area would be around 25 sq.KM. Typically the inside population of the zone includes about a dozen lions,100 spotted deer, about 100 Nilgai (or Bluebull), about 15 wild boars, about half a dozen sambars and blackbucks, and other mammal and reptilian species along

with birds. In addition limited number of tourists are allowed into the sanctuary on designated routes,in a

closed CNG mini-bus,with a driver cum guide. The best time to visit the area is outside the monsoon season.We were thrilled to see and photograph the lions roaming in their natural habitat and some resting in shadow of forest trees.As we were first in the batch,it was quick and took us about 1 ½ hours to complete the process.The forest pass cum ticket costed Rs.75/ each. Started for Junagarh at about 4 PM.The road was mostly through the jungles.Deep in side the jungles, we have seen the small villages of tribals who are engaged mainly in traditional occupation of animal husbandry,dairy and collection of jungle produces,besides some being in farming.

As already stated earlier, this part of the Gujarat is very green, rich, and agriculturally advanced, besides the irregular monsoons and uneven distribution of rainfall across the peninsula, and, hence,drought years are common. It was told to us that, of late, the water table in these fields have gone high, because of more than a lakh of catchment-dams constructed in recent years in Gujarat and use of drip-irrigation techniques, to save water. A large number of new crops like Kesharia mango, and Arabian-nuts are introduced in this area of Gujarat and the produce is exported to Middle East and Europe, besides the other traditional produces like organic jeera (cumin seeds), saunf etc.

Reached Junagarh in the evening at bout 6 PM and checked in room no.107, Hotel ‘Leo Resorts’, Taleti Road, Junagarh-362 001,[Ph:(+0285)-2652844/45, 26568 45/46,Fax no.(+0285)262 1170,website:www leoresorts.com].

Day 7:February 12, 2010: Friday : Junagarh - Ahmedabad (By Road: North East : 325KMs)

It was a shivaratri festival today and the area of our hotel had a big and famous ‘shivalaya’ temple nearby so there was great rush outside on the roads. It is a big festival in Saurashtra region of Gujarat. Due to security requirements there was traffic restrictions on the main road leading to the hotel and being one way, one was required to make a long reroute to reach the hotel. Started from the hotel ‘Leo Resorts‘ at 9:30 Am for city site seeing.

Junagarh is an ancient fortified city rich in myth and legend. Junagadh lies at the foot of Girnar Hill and takes its name from the 'Old Fort', which circles the medieval town. The Girnar Hills stands from 2500 years BC having a legend of the times of the emperor Ashoka (250 BC) whose fourteen Rock Edicts can be seen cut into a great rock outside the city. Junagadh breathes history. Within this ancient fort of Uparkot, the architectural marvels of Hindu Chudasma rulers and Muslim Mohmud Beghda coexist in perfect harmony. It was the capital of the erstwhile Junagadh State under the Muslim rulers of Babi Nawabs. The majestic Mohabatkhan Maqbara, a memorial to Junagadh's Babi Ruler and the Veritable Darbar Hall Museum show that Junagadh continued to make history untill as recently as 100 years ago.

First we went to see ’Mohabat Khan Maqbara’, situated in the heart of the city. As known from its name it is a mausoleum grave of Nawab vii and viii of Babi rulers (the last nawab had since migrated to Pakistan after India’s partition and independence in 1947). It is a very beautiful building built in 1878,having a mixture of Muslim, European and Hindu architecture, but not nicely maintained. I clicked some photographs of the building and talked with a few people who came for namaz in the adjoining masjid. As a major portion of the building is locked, one cannot see it from inside but can make a round of it. It could be a great tourist spot, if properly developed.

Our next stop was ‘Narsingh Mehta Choro’ and the the Krishna temple .It is situated in the heart of the city and is the house of great vaishnavi saint and poet Narsinh Mehta, writer /composer of famous bhajan ” Vaishnav jan to tene re kahiye…peer parai janey…” which describes the qualities of a devotee. Sant Narsinh Mehta or Sant Narsi Mehta is one of the greatest poets of Gujarat and devotees of the Lord Krishna.He was born in Taloja ( near Bhavnagar) in 1414 in a Vad Nagar Brahmin family. At an early age his mother, father and uncle died. He lived with his brother and sister-in–law, who treated him badly. From an early age he liked the company of Sadhu- Sant, so heard and sang many devotional Songs (poems that are prayers). He had immense faith in God and his social life was of no interest to him. Narsinh Mehta faced lot of difficulties in his life- time. His wife Manek died at very early age, his son passed away in his young age, Kuvar Bai, his daughter become widow. He was left with his widow daughter-in-law, besides the king of the time King Ram Mandlink always created problems for Narsinh Mehta but Narsinh Mehta's life revolved in Sri Krishna’s devotion and Bhakti.

Narsinh Mehta has mentioned all these happenings in his poems, which became very popular later. Prabhatia, Bhajans, Paad, Sri Krishna Nee Baal Ras Dan Lila, Prabhu Nee Bhakti, Gyan Na Padhu, Sudama Charitya are some of his best compsitions, which are extremely striking. His bhajan "Vaishnav Jan To Tene Re Kahiye..." is Mahatma Gandhi's favorite and has become synonymous to him. Bhakt ShriMadh Bhagwat and Geet Govind are also in his poems. He died at the age of 66 in 1480.It is believed on his death his bodily remains converted into flower, as was done in the case of Saint Kabir das.

Visited the Sri Krishna temple, photo gallery based on his life, some donation to the trust managing the activities, all situated in the same complex.

Next we visited the “Fort”; locally known as ‘UpperKot’, lying in the old city and built by Sultan of Gujarat, around 1535 AD. The Sultan lost the war with the Portuguese. The Syrian canons used in the war are displayed at a central location in the fort. One can get a full view of the whole city from the fort, being on a height. Also visited the mosque in the Fort, once used by the sultan. It has a unique architecture and has 2 nos. of Octagonal shape domes. One gets very good view of the hillocks out side from the arched doors of the mosque. Being Shivratri festival the fort and area around it was very crowded on that day. There are three temples inside the fort and many people visited them. We got a good feel of a country-side fair of Gujarat at this place.

We wanted to shop for dresses and saris of famous local Kathiavadi/ typical run of Kutchh designs for the family, so went to shopping complex at Kalba chowk area, near Gandhi Bhandar /Post office road, Junagarh and did some purchases at ‘ Poonam Sarees’ for sarees and salwar suits. The prints and designs are unique and typical to run of Kutchh/ Kathiavad.

Started for Ahmedabad at about 12:50 PM, via Rajkot, Chotila, Syla, Limbdi (for the 325KM road journey).On the way stayed for the lunch at a road side restaurant near Limbdi. In Gujarat, in most of the road-side restaurants they have two sections—one for the general public and opens for all customers for all the 24 hours, whereas the second section is air conditioned and essentially for family sittings. It generally opens between 11AM to 9 PM. Reached Ahmedabad at about 06:45 PM and checked in room no.105( F/F), at hotel ‘Host Inn’ ,Khanpur, opposite Le Meridian Hotel,Ahmedabad-380001( Gujarat). (Ph; +91 -79) 3022 6555-56,Fax: 3022 6557,website-www.hotelhostinn.com.) The hotel location is good, but rooms are though fully furnished are small in size than that required to a star deluxe rooms. Room- Service was also poor. I shall not recommend any well wisher to this hotel, barring emergency situations. Took dinner at the hotel and retired early being tired.

Day 8: February 13, 2010: Saturday : Stayed at Ahmedabad and visited Sabarmati Ashram, Gandhinagar, Adlaj –ka- Vav, Vaishno Devi Temple and shopping.

In the morning started at 09:00 AM to visit the famous Sabarmati Ashram. It is a place where one can re-visit the life of Mr. M. K. Gandhi and his becoming the father of the nation through the Indian National Independence Movement, as being the controlling site of most of the major activities initiated by Mahatma Gandhi. It assumes a position of critical importance in India's pre independence history not only because it was a witness to a number of historical events during India's struggle for independence, but also because it was a symbol of Mahatma's political ideologies and the philosophies of his life.

It was at this ashram,located in the out skirts at a distance of 4 kilometers from main Ahmedabad city, that his political strategies and action plans found shape. Gandhi Ji’s ethos of life and political doctrines have been invented, planned and executed and finally permeated into all spheres of the Indian society from the Sabarmati Ashram. Sabarmati Ashram, also referred to by a host of other names like Gandhi Ashram, Harijan Ashram and Satyagraha Ashram is a place highly revered by the entire nation, for the great Mahatma left marks of his exemplary life over here. It is a repository of memories that immortalize Gandhi in the hearts of the millions of Indians. The ashram was originally established at the Kocharab Bungalow of Jivanlal Desai on 25 May 1915. The Ashram was then shifted on 17 June 1917 to a piece of open land on the banks of the river Sabarmati. For any ordinary Indian it is like coming to a pilgrimage.

The Ashram has been known primarily for a tertiary school opened by the Mahatma Gandhi that mainly focused on manual labour, agriculture, and literacy to advance his efforts for nation's self-sufficiency. It was

also from here on the 12 March 1930 that Gandhi Ji marched towards Dandi,241 miles from the Ashram with 78 companions in protest of the British Salt Law, which taxed Indian salt in an effort to promote sales of British salt in India. This mass awakening filled the British jails with 60 000 freedom fighters. Later the government seized their property, Gandhi, in sympathy with them, responded by asking the Government to forfeit the Ashram. Then Government, however, did not oblige. He had by now already decided on 22 July 1933 to disband the Ashram, which later became asserted place after the detention of many freedom fighters, and then some local citizens decided to preserve it. On 12 March 1930 he vowed that he would not return to the Ashram until India won independence. Although this was won on 15 August 1947, when India was declared a free nation, Gandhi Ji was assassinated in January 1948 and he never came back to the Sabarmati Ashram.

Since 1951, the responsibility of preserving and maintaining the Sabarmati Ashram is being discharged by Sabarmati Ashram Preservation and Memorial Trust. Taken some photographs at and around the Ashram, in the rooms, where Gandhi Ji personally lived, his personal belongings are displayed, also at the Sabarmati river front.A new bridge is being constructed across the river by the side of the Ashram. It is visited by vast multitude of people from all over the world. Vinoba Kutir (and also known as Mira Kutir after Miraben, Gandhiji's disciple, daughter of a British Admiral), Nandini and Gandhi Sangrahalaya are some of the important areas of Sabarmati Ashram.The ashram now has a museum, Gandhi Smarak Sangrahalay, which was inaugurated by Jawaharlal Nehru, Prime Minister of India, on 10 May 1963.One must have minimum 3-4 hours to do justice with the various displays in the museum.

The museum has many important sections and treasure of time immorial items of our keen interest.Some of them are followings :-

After from Sabarmati Ashram,went to see the famous Akshardham temple,in Gandhinagar- the new capital of Gujarat, about 35 Km away from Ahmedabad. This temple is unique ,besids in its architecture but in collections of items of personal use of Lord Swaminarayan( 1781-1820) , the founder of the Swaminarayan faith , viz. his clothes, his used religious equipments and applainces, his strands of hairs, a few broken teeth, some bones( asthi- after cremation) etc. The temple is situated just opposite the residence ,across the

road of present Chief Minister of Gujarat : Sri Narendra Modi.This makes it unique than the other temples of Swaminarayan sect acoss the world

Swaminarayan Akshardham in Gandhinagar, Ahmedabad epitomises 10,000 years of Indian culture in all its breathtaking grandeur, beauty, wisdom and bliss. It brilliantly showcases the essence of India’s ancient architecture, traditions and timeless spiritual messages. The Akshardham experience is an enlightening journey through India’s glorious art, values and contributions for the progress, happiness and harmony of mankind, through out its known history. Akshardham is a unique cultural complex that celebrates the past, addresses the present, and blesses the future. It upholds the universal values of Humanity and symbolizes the glory of Indian Culture. Over 2 million visitors visit annually to see the major attractions in living example of Hindu architecture, design, sculpture, extremes in human efforts & creativity (it is difficult to believe such a huge creation in stone can be made in present times, without using cement and steel, only with inter-locking of stones with each other) and experience and enjoy the divinity in its live form. Only by seeing, you can imagine and appreciate the Akshardham. Akshardham means the eternal, divine abode of the supreme God, the abode of eternal values and virtues of Akshar as defined in the Vedas and Upanishads, where divine bhakti, purity and peace forever pervades.

For the first time ever in the world witness the heritage of India in all its facets, insights and beauty at the Swaminarayan Akshardham through its mandir, exhibitions, verdant gardens and other attractions. One of the wonders of the world, the imposing 10 story high, intricately carved architectural masterpiece, enshrines Golden Murti (idol) of Lord Swaminarayan, the founder of the Swaminarayan faith. Akshardham is an architectural marvel of this Century.Awe-inspiring auspiciousness and amazing craftsman- ship. 6,000 tons of pink sandstone has been pieced together with incredible accuracy. More than 12 million man-hours of 900 skilled craftsmen have created this magnificent monument of 93 sculpted pillars, 40 windows carved from both sides, and a feast of forms and filigrees. The structure measures 108 feet (33 m) in height, 240 feet (73 m) in length and 131 feet (40 m) in width. The colonnade around the monument is 1,751 feet (534 m) in length. Thousands come daily to discover the inspirations of design and devotion, effort and elegance, care and consciousness, silence and spirituality

Pramukh Swami Maharaj is the spiritual leader of BAPS Sanstha. He has created international cultural complexes like; the Akshardham in New Delhi India, the Akshardham in Gandhinagar India, The Shri Swaminarayan Mandir in Neasden, London, Atlanta, Georgia, Houston, Texas, Chicago, Illinois, Los Angeles, California, Toronto, Canada, and Nairobi. Even at the age of 86 Pramukh Swami travels and meets people throughout the world to help those lead better lives. BAPS Sanstha is an international social, spiritual and charitable NGO affiliated with the United Nations. Through its 3300 centers, 800 sadhus, 55000 volunteers and over a million followers, BAPS performs over a 160 humanitarian activities. Akshardham is a part of BAPS’s culture and educational activities. Akshardham aims to promote Indian art, culture, and values. It's tagline is, "This is a place where art is ageless, culture is borderless, and values are timeless."The monument enshrining the seven foot high, gold-leafed Murti of Lord Swaminarayan is the focal point of the complex. We took our lunch at the food-court of the temple. What a combination of variety of

foods- - Gujarati, south Indian,North Indian,Punjabi,Chinese cousines-all vegetarian, but in various combos, packages-like Thali’s, or individual,la carta. Quality, variety, pricing, serving sizes and dispension- all are consumer friendly, being not for racking profits but to serve the devotees. Gujarati Khitchri,Punjabi Thali and special Kheer are some of the items worth mentioning and trying. No electronic items,purse, mobile phones, camera , eatables,explosive, medicines,drugs etc are allowed inside the temple.Security is tight and universal for all.Facility of lockers are available to keep your belongings at the reception area.

While coming back to the city, one finds another spectacular place to see and admire the old heritage places of Gujarat. Adalaj is a small village, situated at a distance of 18 km to the north of Ahmedabad. Vav means a step well. Adalaj Vav was built by Queen Rudabai, in 1499 AD. She was the wife of the Vaghela chief, Veer Sinh. A beautifully chiseled, five level step well, Adalaj Vav is counted amongst the finest architectural structures of Gujarat. According to the folklore, Sultan Beghara killed the Vaghela King, Veer Sinh, in order to expand his territory. He then sent a marriage proposal to his wife, Queen Rudabai. She begged for sometime from the Sultan, so that she could complete the Vav that she was building in the memory of her loving husband. The Sultan agreed without knowing the true intentions of the queen. Queen Rudabai dragged the construction work for 20 long years. Losing patience, the Sultan again insisted for marriage.The

queen reciprocated by jumping from one of the balconies in the well. It is said that she jumped into the vav

and took Jal Samadhi in order to save her honor and to please the Jal Devi to maintain constant flow of water in the well. It is a beautiful piece of scientifically designed water harvesting scheme and also an architectural marvel.

The Adalaj Vav is adorned with intricate carvings and splendid sculptures. The walls of the well depict figures of flowers, birds, fish and other ornamental designs. There are a number of corridors and platforms surrounding the well. The three entrances contain steps that reach up to the stepped corridors. These corridors meet on a platform, which has an octagonal opening on the top. The missing canopy of the well tells us that it is still not complete.

The unique feature of Adalaj Vav is that apart from conserving water for drinking purposes, it also serves as a cooling chamber in the hot summer months. The steps of the well were used by the travelers and caravans passing from the area, on the due course of their trade routes. With time, the well has become a memorial of the love of the queen for her husband. One can still see water in the well, which is a living example of spirit of the queen. We went up to the bottom of the well and took some photographs of the beautifully carved pillars, columns and other sections of the well.

Next stop was “ Vaishno Devi’ temple, which is basically a temple dedicated to goddess Durga Ji, constructed and being run on the lines of famous ‘Vaishno Devi’ shrine at Katra, near Jammu in J & K state. The striking similarity is the stairs and caves, where one has to go only by crawling. One gets in prasad only in form of coins of the temple. There is strict security but no arrangement for safe custody of shoes and we were about to loose our shoes.

As we wished to over stay for one more day at Ahmedabad, we checked-in at another hotel (: in room noo.114, Hotel Pinnacle, Opposite Town Hall, near Ellis Bridge, Ashram Road, Ahmedabad-380 006 ,Ph. No.+079-2658 9904/05/07,Fax No.+079-2658 9908., website:www.hotelpinnacle.com).It is a centrally located 3 star hotel and rooms are very nicely equipped and appointed.

In the evening went for shopping at the C.G. Road area, Municipal corporation market, and on Law Garden Road. Besides many small items, purchased a pair of pink color sandals for wife and Lahanga-choli sets for dear Rhea, Saina and Anjali in different colors and of Katchhy prints and heavy embroidery. Also visited ‘Kankaria Municipal corporation’ park and had joy train rides. Being tired, dinner / night halt at the hotel.

Day 9: February 14, 2010:Sunday : Shopping at Ahmedabad and Ahmedabad-Delhi by Rail by Ahmedabad-Delhi Rajdhani Exp.

It was our last day of the Gujarat-Trip and we did not have any plans to go for sight- seeing, so we got ready late from the hotel and went for shopping at Lal Darwaja, Teen Darwaja area of the old Ahmedabad city. After shopping came back to hotel for lunch, packing and some rest. Started for the railway station at about 03:30 PM. The Ahmedabad-Delhi Rajdhani express train started in time from platform no.1.The train journey was unusually calm and quiet and reached Delhi next day morning at 07:30 AM. Our son: Dr.Biplav Srivastava went to receive us at the railway station.

Finally, We found our Gujarat trip very educative, satisfying, fulfilling and shall cherish it rest of our lives.

Note: - 1. This gist of our Gujarat tour was written by me at the instance of our beloved children , who could not accompany us due to their busy schedule and being away.

2. Some of the information about various temples/places have been taken from net and various other sources.

Day 7:February 12, 2010: Friday : Junagarh - Ahmedabad (By Road: North East : 325KMs)